Welding Rod

J

jtfx6552

Member
Looks like I need to add some material to the front of one door for proper panel alignment.

I think the proper procedure is to weld on some welding rod, but since I've only ever used a MIG, i don't know anything about welding rod.

Is there a certain go to welding rod? Are they all the same?

Thoughts appreciated.
 
in all my years i have never done this. i just dont see why it would ever be necessary .
 
Yeah, I'm not really in the mood to try it. I'm just not sure any other way to fix it. I have the gaps good everywhere except the top of the front of the door to the fender. It's a mustang and the gap is good at the top edge of the "C-scoop" body line, and at the top body line, but opens up about an extra 1/8th in between, meaning about 1/4 total. I can't close it without making the door hit at the very top or at the C scoop line.
 
You could change that door for another one 5 different times with 5 different nos doors and their gaps would likely all be different, if that is vintage Mustang. They just didn't have much quality control for such things. I worked in a Ford engine assy plant in the mid 60s, and I can tell you the main thing was getting them out the door. So if you are looking for perfect gaps, then welding is a good way to do that.

What I have noticed is that the metal will shrink away from the edge, causing the door skin to bulge some just a little ways in from the edge. So depending on how much you get, you may have to shrink the bulge a little.
 
You can use a regular welding rod and strip the flux off of it, but tig rod or steel gas welding rod would be easier to work with IF you want to weld a piece of rod to it. In such a small area like the top of a mustang door, I would just make a bead on the edge with the MIG and do 2 passess if necessary to build it up to what you need, then grind smooth. Just take your time and keep heat to a minimum as with any other sheetmetal welding process.

Kelly
 
Well...I did this a while back and I just mig'ed on a 1/8 inch mild steel rod.
Was this a bad thing?
I did see a little swelling along the edge, but it wasn't anything that a few hammer/dolly taps didn't fix.
 
I stacked two beads on the front of a nova door a few weeks ago and had very little warpage with a torch. The aftermarket skins were way off in length from side to side and also compared to the originals. Moving the fender rearward would have required mods and would have screwed up the hood alignment.
 
What you need to use is 1/8" ER70S6 filler rod. I would happily send you some, but will have to check if I have any 1/8 as I never use that size.
 
Jim, I have never tried using rod, do you melt the rod or weld on both sides of it? I just use a mig and run a row or two of beads
 
sprayed99;36151 said:
What you need to use is 1/8" ER70S6 filler rod. I would happily send you some, but will have to check if I have any 1/8 as I never use that size.
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I've added 1/8" rod before but used basic mild steel, I see no reason why you'd need a high strength S-6 steel?
 
Bob Hollinshead;36113 said:
I stacked two beads on the front of a nova door a few weeks ago and had very little warpage with a torch. The aftermarket skins were way off in length from side to side and also compared to the originals. Moving the fender rearward would have required mods and would have screwed up the hood alignment.
Click to expand...

Could you elaborate on how you did this? Did you just attack it from the edge? How long of a bead can you run before things start to warp? Did you have to hammer and dolly the edge during or after?
 
I have used silicone bronze with an o/a torch to build up edges. I have never used MIG to do it.

I recently ordered a 2# roll of silbronze .030 to try with the mig. Figure when I start to hang doors and fenders on the Mustang there will probably be gap problems and would be a great place to try this stuff out.

$25 shipped for a 2# roll on Amazon.
 
The above suggestions certainly will work but I personally like to weld in a small piece of 12 or 14 gauge which will absorb some of the heat. If you need to add 1/8 of an inch I will add 1/2 inch of heavy metal that equals the three thicknesses that make up your door edge and then cut 3/8 off, grind and shape the edge.

John
 
I'm probably about to get flamed for this, but I watched this video this week about this very same thing. I guess this is the other option. What is your opinion on this video. I know a lot of people run from it because of the edges are weak areas for paint. Start at the 3:42 marker on the vid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wamlWA7L-fA
 
Senile Old Fart;36275 said:
I have used silicone bronze with an o/a torch to build up edges. I have never used MIG to do it.

I recently ordered a 2# roll of silbronze .030 to try with the mig. Figure when I start to hang doors and fenders on the Mustang there will probably be gap problems and would be a great place to try this stuff out.

$25 shipped for a 2# roll on Amazon.
Click to expand...

That sounds like a much better idea than following a guy that recommends Eastwood products and says it needs to be sanded with 36 grit. Sorry Rustover, just my opinion


Silicon Bronze was recommended to me about a year ago by a welder, and I have been checking into it. It seems to leave a ghost line if chrome plated though.
http://metalshapers.org/101/covell/covell-silbronze.shtml

A good discussion on it here.
http://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=1802
 
I've wondered about the silicone bronze as well but I think it needs straight Argon gas if I remember right, and I also wonder if it's compatible with solder? Anybody know?
 
No problem chevman. I'm just starting to learn this stuff. There a lot of ways to do things and some ways are better than others. That's the good thing about this forum. I always get professional advice.
 
Bob Hollinshead;36285 said:
I've wondered about the silicone bronze as well but I think it needs straight Argon gas if I remember right, and I also wonder if it's compatible with solder? Anybody know?
Click to expand...

Yes, straight argon. I have a bottle on the tig, so that part is already handled

Yes standard solder will stick to it.

Sticking dissimilar metals together is one of the alloys strong points.
 
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