Wanda

Hi There, the local distributors around here for Wanda do no show pricing... what is a ball park per gallon of basecoat?
 
yes depends on color. usually pearl colors are more. of course 68's quart he paid for was prereduced so probably a little less than a straight quart. i would say the price could vary from $55-150 per qt.
 
We are doing a collision style repair on a fender for the 03 monte carlo. The choices at the local store are wanda, omni and omni plus. I asked him to rank them he said wanda is closer to omni plus, he wouldnt suggest omni for red. Wanda was the cheapest, omni 15 more omni plus about double.

My question though, is are you guys using universal clear over the wanda and will it match the rest of the car? The rest of the car does not have the deep wet look that universal gives and now its the below zero windchills, we need the car as a backup and cant afford to do a long full paint job.
 
i use universal and euro over the wanda all the time. euro is likely to give a more oem finish but still no matter what you put on it its going to look fresh and new compared to the other panels. give the adjacent panels a good buffing and it shouldnt be too noticable. wanda is by a long shot your best choice over the other 2. well i have never used omni plus so i cant really say that. i used diamont for 8 years. now i have a wanda machine here for almost a year now. so far the wanda is equal to or better than the diamont in every way at 1/3 the price.
 
I think it's hard to compare Wanda to all those other lines. It could really rival lesonal (diamont, dbc..etc) if it had all the bells and whistles, but we know Akzo isn't going to do that. Now with utech being scaled down, the Wanda base kind of takes that place of the Utech base, but with a hell of a lot better colormatch. Now that I am back to using sikkens, I will probably move to using a little more wanda on the smaller and inexpensive jobs since I have all the color tools necessary.

You might be better off with the 2.1 production clear for that job. Put 2 coats and walk away. It is a lower solids so it isn't going to give you that "deeper" look (compared to universal)...though it will still be deep compared to the car, but just a quick polish and you will be ok.
 
ok, thanks guys. We got a pint of Wanda for a quarter panel repair on a stratus and the color match was really good, just the right pearly look to the white. I was more concerned with the metallic. The time we used Omni was touching up this diamond plate graphic we did on the jeep. The masking from the blue broke down, so we wet sanded and both the silver and blue got screwed. So the only metallic I have seen are a pattern about 3/16ths wide.
When we did the Stratus I chickened out on the clear and just used a fast clear that I used for a repair before, it was before we really figured out the universal and we actually sprayed it on the lift so we needed something that would flash fast and not collect dust. But now we have the deep look of universal on the camaro, I just know its gonna be night and day.
I will get some production clear in the warm booth to shoot later today.
 
real nice match with the wanda on the fender in the berry red. ended up using universal clear, he just cut it up to 3000 though and a nice buff with the perfect it one stage matched the 11 year old gloss pretty good.
 
I'm a couple years on Wanda mixing system and I like it pretty well. Wanda does not recommend spray over NEW OE primer like on new parts or aftermarket. They recommend sealing those first. I tested back when I first put the system in and it does not stick really well to that e-coat primer. Back when I first put it in I sprayed down a coat of PPG DBC500 that did stick very well and applied Wanda base over it. Now I use a coat of catalyzed SPI intercoat clear. All in all I like Wanda. I sprayed BASF for years and it is similar but a lot less expensive. I'm not sure how long I've had Wanda, maybe two years now. Not a single failure that I can attribute to anything. Since changing, I've only had one come back and it was poor prep, not Wanda or anything else. If you don't scuff the edge inside a wheel well, it will peel. I didn't prep it but I did spray it and should have caught it.
 
I've always thought that e-coat needed some mil thickness of sealer or primer over it for the coating system to perform best, especially for chip resistance.
 
yeah i agree. the ecoat in any system needs a sealer or primer put on it. i dont know of any paint co that recommends scuffing e-coat and just putting base on it with no sealer. its kinda like a no no since you never know what that e-coat is. some of that stuff is good and some bad.
 
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