Using SPI Reducers in PPG DBU Basecoats

R

RedXray

Doing some painting on my Victory Red 2000 GMC Sierra. Found a deal on a gallon of PPG DBU and plan to clear it with the SPI Euro 5000. I know the DBU uses a reactive reducer (DDR) to activate the basecoat. I've read the PPG DT reducer for DBC basecoats can be substituted for the DDR. My question is could I use the SPI reducer in the DBU base? The PPG reactive reducer has a short shelf life and it would save money using the SPI if it is compatible.

I'm spraying inside the bed (scratches), tailgate, and color matching the ABS mirrors and bumper cap. I sprayed the bed back in 06 in Limco Supreme and resprayed the complete left side in DuPont Chroma after a deer slammed into it (new left fender, door skin & bedside)

Thanks!

RedXray



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Make your own reactive reducer. Just add one ounce of any clear-coat activator per mixed quart of base and you have it.

Whole lot cheaper and OH! Better also.
 
I was hoping I could just sub a reducer and cross my fingers a non reactive reducer wouldn't have issues with the base lifting. This is great that I can mix my own, and without worries the (expensive) PPG DDR will expire past it's shelf life :D

Thanks Barry!
 
Just a tip for everyone, make sure you purge the air out of any container of activator once the factory seal is broken. Either use Bloxygen or Argon, or 75/25 gas.

Another tip, never leave the lid off for even a few extra seconds, darn humidity will sneak into the can.
 
When adding SPI clear activator/reducer to the DBU base coat would you still use PPGs recommend flash times of 10 - 15 minutes between base coats and 30 minutes to clear (3 base coats 70°F)
 
Or longer, most tech sheets are written for the speed required for production shops.
Back to your question, you really are not changing anything, just making your own reducer.
 
The SPI UV Activator worked great in the DBU basecoat Barry! I used one cap full per reduced 20 oz of base. The Universal clear laid down nicely and cut even nicer the next day using 1000 then 2000 grit wetsanding. Instead of buffing with my usual aggressive wool pad and rotary, the clear sanded so easy I decided to use my Griot's Garage 6" DA with a 6.5 Orange Lake Country CCS foam pad and Meguiars M105, followed with a White CCS pad and HD Polish. I've been painting since the mid 70's and this is the best clear I've used!

I was just going to spray the Sierra's bumper cap and mirrors and call it done. Then decided to replace the Sierra's bumper and grill assembly with the Denali conversion parts (used). I'm happy with the results and very satisfied with the SPI products I used on this job! (epoxy primer, adhesion promoter, UV Clear, Slow Reducer, waterborn wax & grease remover)

Thanks for the info Barry!

Before

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After

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