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Using 710 and/or 700 without wiping?

Discussion in 'Cleaners 700, 710' started by MetalRevival, Jul 13, 2017.

  1. MetalRevival

    MetalRevival New Member

    New poster here. I blast and refinish antique and vintage metal patio furniture. Been using U-Tech epoxy then single stage, but recently tried SPI epoxy and like it. Got a few fisheyes and Barry suggested prepping with 700 waterborn w&g remover. My dilemma is the fine texture of my blast profile causes any wiping towels or rags to leave enough fiber "fur" to show up in the paint job. Tried using a red Scotchbrite instead of blue shop towels and fibers still present. Even after blowing off with a leaf blower. So here's my question:
    If I hang the parts (after blasting) and douse them with enough 700 to drip off, can I avoid the whole wipe down process and still have good surface prep? I would still hit them with the leaf blower after dripping stopped.
  2. MP&C

    MP&C Member

    Jeff, providing your blast cabinet isn't used for greasy engine parts and full of contaminants, I'd try wiping pre-blasting, then media blast, blow off with CLEAN compressed air, and go straight to epoxy, see if you still have the issue.

    I think by not wiping the w/g removers will be bringing the impurities to the surface but they would still remain, thus so would your fisheyes.
  3. MetalRevival

    MetalRevival New Member

    Thanks Robert. I blast outside and use fresh crushed glass every job to minimize contamination. Had a bad outcome trying to save money and recycling the grit - never again and crushed glass is cheap. If I 700 then wipe before blasting that should take care of any top contaminants, but my fear is what's under the layers of paint and rust. I may start hot pressure washing this stuff before I blast.
  4. shine

    shine Member

    after i blast i use dawn soap with a white brush then rinse well , blow dry and epoxy.
    Painting Mechanic and John Long like this.
  5. chevman

    chevman Oldtimer

    You may just be getting too close with the spray gun in some areas and getting it on too thick, which will cause something similar to fish eyes with SPI epoxy. I'm sure Barry could fix that with a formula change, but we don't want to loose any of the good properties of the epoxy---tit for tat. So you just have to maintain proper spraying techniques, and I'm sure that will be challenging with what you are spraying.

    Sometimes I clean only before blasting, and use clean media, and sometimes I clean after and use a SS wire brush to clean off the lint.
  6. El_Duderino

    El_Duderino Member

    We sand blast everything and i never degrease, only clean with air. Its all spray technique with this epoxy. Once you get it down, no problems.
    elwood likes this.
  7. shine

    shine Member

    you better hope you have clean air . my blasting rig will definitely cause problems.
  8. rustover

    rustover Member

    Anytime I blast metal, the metal has a clean look to it, after a wipe down, the prep wipe will still have grey on it. I clean until no more grey on the rag, then blow with compressed air.
  9. Like Chevman said there's a strong possibility what you are seeing are not fisheyes. Spraying it too thick (even just barely) will cause craters that look just like fisheyes. Spray your first coat light with a touch more air pressure, then come back with a heavier/wetter 2nd coat and see if that solves your issue.
    elwood likes this.
  10. dhutton01

    dhutton01 Member

    X3 those are likely not fisheyes but craters from laying the first coat on too thick. At least that is my experience...

    Skip the wax and grease remover after blasting and spray the first coat of epoxy a little lighter.

  11. MetalRevival

    MetalRevival New Member

    Got great results today by spraying the first coat a bit light then heavy on the second coat. I'm convinced I went too heavy on the first coat the last time and that caused the problems. Can't thank you guys enough for all the great advice! Great product and amazing tech and forum support.

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