Top coating Epoxy Primer best practices?

G

Gurskey

New Member
Hi guys. I’m a new member and am spraying epoxy primer today on an FJ40 landcruiser frame. I’m wondering the best practice for topcoating it with single stage. I’m spraying 2 coats of epoxy today, And am wondering if I should roll it out in the sun for a couple of hours today for good measure? Or should I just leave it inside, it’s warm here about 85 and I will be able to keep at 65 degrees tonight. I plan on spraying single stage tomorrow 24 hours from now. Any disadvantages to putting it outside to cure quicker? Would I just be able to bring it back inside tonight, tack it off tomorrow and spray the single stage 24 hours from now? I’m a newbie so I would appreciate any advice!
 
I would actually keep it inside so it’s less “cured” for the single stage. UV accelerates it to the end of the 7 day recoat period. You may find you want to wet sand your epoxy first with 600 grit to get out any peel and bibs prior to the SS. Will give you a much smoother substrate. If that’s the case then I’d spray a third coat and then wet sand that. You want at least two full coats remaining on the vehicle.
 
Thanks for the info. I actually got to thinking yesterday and did end up leaving it inside and doing a third coat. If I did wet sand it with 600 would that then enable me to wait until next weekend to spray the single stage? Next Friday would be day 7 for the epoxy, but would the now scuffed surface be enough for the topcoat at any point, even past 7 days?
 
Thanks for the advice Metalman and Lizer. I just went for it and painted it with black single stage. The spi epoxy laid out smooth and I didn’t need to sand it, especially with it being a frame…..but. It’s a little too shiny for what would be the original factory sheen. Is it possible to dull down my glossy black to a semi gloss once it is cured? Kind of nitpicking, but even a little gloss reduction would bring it closer to the factory look. I’m nerding out on restoring my 1968 FJ40 landcruiser, so might as well get as close to factory as possible.
By the way, the spi forum has some of the best advice when doing any sort of search on paint and body procedures/advice.. regardless of the brand.. it is consistently at the top of the search for info, so thanks to all the knowledgeable members I gather info from!
 
id wetsand with 400 grit spray reduced epoxy sealer. i like 20 percent reduced, come in next morning denib epoxy sealer if needed and start spraying your single stage has worked excellent for me
 
Gurskey said:
Thanks for the advice Metalman and Lizer. I just went for it and painted it with black single stage. The spi epoxy laid out smooth and I didn’t need to sand it, especially with it being a frame…..but. It’s a little too shiny for what would be the original factory sheen. Is it possible to dull down my glossy black to a semi gloss once it is cured? Kind of nitpicking, but even a little gloss reduction would bring it closer to the factory look. I’m nerding out on restoring my 1968 FJ40 landcruiser, so might as well get as close to factory as possible.
By the way, the spi forum has some of the best advice when doing any sort of search on paint and body procedures/advice.. regardless of the brand.. it is consistently at the top of the search for info, so thanks to all the knowledgeable members I gather info from!
Click to expand...
The epoxy will take 2 to 4 weeks to flatten out if sprayed 1.1.
And will be very close to the original ecoat.
Epoxy is stand-alone on many frames in all kinds of shows and judging.
 
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