The Perfect Paint Job with SPI and Pro-Spray Base

Here's how I am going to apply sanding between base coats in "The Perfect Paint Job" using SPI Products with exception of a Pro-Spray non metallic base. Spray two coats(or until coverage achieved) of basecoat. If its perfect or near perfect, let it sit overnight and spray clear within recoat window. If I am not happy with it, sand out any orange peel or trash and apply two more coats of base. What I overlooked in this article was "If its not perfect". Any sanding base coat requires more base coat. If its perfect after two, why take the chance of getting it perfect after two more? My luck don't work that way.
 
mitch_04;39686 said:
I'm interested on how you consider me trying to stop someone from receiving bad advice preaching. I simply put that he should contact either the paint rep or company to find out whether their base was able to be sanded without lifting. I also said he should ask Barry about the Perfect Paint Job questions relating to base sanding since Barry wrote it. I never said that it couldn't be done, and I never said you were wrong for doing it. I was stating that some brands can't be sanded regardless of technique and the sure-fire way to find out is to contact them.

Forums are a place for sharing ideas. However, bad ideas can be shared as well. You have suggested to use POR15 and spray directly over rust in another thread. You will be hard pressed to find others on this forum, especially not your pro painters. Was I preaching when I said that was not a good idea as well?

If you are becoming offended because someone else is disagreeing with you, the forums may not be a good place for you.
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Right. I just question your experience of what makes it a bad idea? POR 15 is designed to go over rust, they have products to tie that to any paint. The poster cleared up his intentions of not spraying over rust, but when I answered, he was doing little repair of rusted metal.

Anyway, in your ultimate wisdom, what are they worried that is gonna lift, the base or the clearcoat?
 
There is a thread I started asking the question of why POR-15 is so frowned upon. If you want to know why POR-15 is not a good idea, go ahead and read that thread. When I came to this forum I spent my initial time reading previous threads and learning instead of just posting constantly.

If you want to know what will happen, ask Barry. I asked him, an experienced painter who makes the product this forum is dedicated to, and he told me the answer I quoted above.

I don't know about you, but I'd rather spend my time learning what not to do instead of finding out the hard way. Your thread about the Camaro shows that you don't want to take advice, even to the point to where Barry asked you not to use his products if you weren't going to strip it down. Despite multiple pros telling you to strip it, you continued to ignore and try to do what you wanted to do in the first place.

You are right, I do not have a ton of experience like many of the people on here. However, I do learn as much as possible before I start something to keep myself from having to fix mistakes down the road, or have problems down the road. I take the advice of those who have experience and have proven themselves to be great painters. I do not take the advice of people who have screwed things up repeatedly and try to blame problems on other things.
 
Outlaw, your plan looks great. Why through another step in if it's necessary?

I'm much like you, do it "by the book" first. No point in creating bad habits if it isn't necessary. After some time I may try new things, but I like to learn the right way so any of my other faults aren't amplified. Sanding the base was tough for me to understand as well. I'm not a great sprayer so I like to sand everything smooth whenever I can. Good luck with it!
 
mitch_04;39689 said:
There is a thread I started asking the question of why POR-15 is so frowned upon. If you want to know why POR-15 is not a good idea, go ahead and read that thread. When I came to this forum I spent my initial time reading previous threads and learning instead of just posting constantly.

If you want to know what will happen, ask Barry. I asked him, an experienced painter who makes the product this forum is dedicated to, and he told me the answer I quoted above.

I don't know about you, but I'd rather spend my time learning what not to do instead of finding out the hard way. Your thread about the Camaro shows that you don't want to take advice, even to the point to where Barry asked you not to use his products if you weren't going to strip it down. Despite multiple pros telling you to strip it, you continued to ignore and try to do what you wanted to do in the first place.

You are right, I do not have a ton of experience like many of the people on here. However, I do learn as much as possible before I start something to keep myself from having to fix mistakes down the road, or have problems down the road. I take the advice of those who have experience and have proven themselves to be great painters. I do not take the advice of people who have screwed things up repeatedly and try to blame problems on other things.
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Right, how is the camaro coming along anyway? Apparently, you are ASSUMNIG I did not take anyones advice after I asked a simple question of has anyone ever had problems with the sealer and got responses ASSUMING I was not going to follow them. I ended up defending a BASECOAT that was softened due to a mislabeled catalyst for a clear, a basecoat nobody would probably use here. And here is a thread asking about a basecoat not everyone here would use. Makes you wonder if I followed the "good" advice. Now you are ASSUMING I did not follow their suggestions.

Pot, meet kettle.

What was it you said about assuming?

Take time learning, Buy scrap metal and learn. Spray scrap, try to sand it, see what happens. Adjust your pressure, your fluid until you find what you need. Thats learning. Dont spray the car if you are not sure, thats learning. That is the advice you jumped on. I will try not to answer ever thread you seem to have an opinion on, because it seems to be every one.

"Repeatedly screwed things up", you are amazing.

Again outlaw, sorry for destroying your thread. I know you were looking for an answer of "I sanded that base and had no issues." I think you have right idea. Odds are you adjust what caused the problems you needed to sand and your final coat comes quickly. Smooth is not a clearcoats friend, so your learning curve is knowing what is not even going to be seen as a flaw after the clear is on.

I guess you can give mitch a gold star for running me off because I have nothing valuable to add here.
 
I never said that you were the one repeatedly screwing things up, so if you are going to be making a statement about assuming you might not want to add an assumption in the very same post. You also kept trying to defend your own way before you said you were stripping it down to epoxy and filler, with some bare metal showing in places. So, I'm not assuming, I'm simply stating the facts that you provided in your own thread. "We are almost down to filler and epoxy now. Plenty of bare metal so we will need to start back with an epoxy." You did not say you stripped the entire car to bare metal. You did not update on the car after that. Simply stating what you had written.

Also, the first post about assuming a joke. I don't know if you have heard the expression, but the way you are focusing in on it I'm guessing you don't. It means when you assume you make an ASS out of U and ME and it's related to finding the truth instead of assuming.

Lastly, in your comment about "here is a thread asking about a basecoat not everyone here would use", if you researched this forum a little more you would find out Pro Spray is a highly recommended brand.
 
So skipping over all of Mitch and Anotheridiot's BS, to provide just another direct answer to the OP's question (even though you really aren't going to get a better answer than what Chad's already given), yes, ProSpray base can be sanded. Mine was a metallic, I had some weird spots in my base, almost like water spots (but not fish eyes). Barry was real perplexed when I showed him pics. I scuffed the entire thing down with either 1500 or a red scotch brite (I don't recall), and shot another coat of base (this was metallic mind you). The key to not having stripes or mottling is immediately after just spraying base on the panel, pull the gun back 15 inches, drop the pressure, and spray a real fast drop coat over the panel. This will give an even metallic. The key is to do it while the BASE IS STILL WET so you the drop coat will melt in to it. If you put a drop coat over a dry base you risk delamination issues with the clear.

I too was doing ProSpray base with Universal Clear.
 
Thanks Lizer. It was quite awhile into the thread before I realized that sanding option between base coats was in case something was not good with the first base coat. The way you explain the metalic distribution over the last coat was exactly the way we used to do it with lacquer in the 60's. I won't be shooting metallic until I get some experience with just regular color on the Pro Spray. Thanks.
 
Look fellas, I dont time have to surf the forum much these days as I am far to busy with this craft as well as my responsibilities at home.. When this forum was started ( originator Basscat ) I was the first official member and worked hard to promote this forum/SPI/Barry Kives..
What I dont like to see is the childsih banter back and forth.. Its not needed and wont be tolerated. There are plenty of body and paint forums on the net where you guys can kick eachother in the balls all day and act like tough keyboard desk jockeys.

So stop it or I will ban you :mad-new:

Have a nice day
 
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