The Perfect Paint Job with SPI and Pro-Spray Base

O

Outlaw

There are 2-4 base coat types than cannot be sanded or you will lose adhesion so avoid those base coats, (Quote from SPI "The Perfect Paint Job"). I am assuming Pro-Spray is not one of the base coats than can not be used. Spray the first coat of base with the slowest reducer you can get away with. Wait 30-45 minutes and spray a second coat of base. After two coats of base, let vehicle set overnight and do any minor wet sanding with 800-1500 grit to remove orange peel or trash. Apply next two coats allowing 45 minutes between coats.

I am assuming if a metallic base is used, sanding between the second and third coats is permissible, but no sanding after second coat. Is this correct?

I am assuming if a metallic base is used, the fourth coat would be followed by a fifth coat, lower pressure, backed off gun mist to distribute the metallic?

Please let me know if I am on the right track. My first project I am planning on no metallic, but I have not committed to the base color yet. I am hoping to go with Pro-Spray.
 
Alot depends on the metallics used. Sanding with the metallic will usually end up turning gray that does not look like metallic when its cleared. I am pretty sure they are saying dont worry if you need to sand halfway thru the basecoat process to get peel or trash out, but dont plan on sanding the coat right before the clear starts. So sand after the first, second or third, but dont sand after the final base coat.

There is a line in there about rebasing over anything that was sanded. As far as distributing metallic, I think thats old school with metal metallics that were heavy and settled out. If anything I am pretty sure you want to get wetter and wetter each coat, backing off might make it more inconsistent and make you think you have to sand before clear.
 
Lol, assume and old school. Two verdicts and Im guilty on both counts. Hopefully Chad or Barry will step up and let us know if Pro-Spray is excluded from the 2-4 list that can not be sanded between coats. Thanks for your replys.
 
The only thing I am sure of is no two painters are alike and you need to find what works for you. I used a nason clear on a lumina my daughter wrecked the hood on, they actually said to click out your fluid line 1/4 turn for each pass you make to start dry and get it wetter. But thats a clear you dont even spray to a slick look, it just makes the base glossy.

I am sure you will get lined up straight at the starting blocks, its still filled with variables that need to make you your own painter. Variables like airflow, temperature, humidity, air quality, compressor volume, the speed of your pass, keeping a consistent overlap, so many things that make your application different than anyone elses.
 
I am sure some can sand bases and get results and others cant. Variables allow one to argue it has little to do with a brand name of base.
 
You can denib between coats or after enough coats are applied to reach full coverage-the choice is yours. The final coat or coats of color should not be sanded before clear is applied. I don't think there's any issues with denibbing or sanding pro-spray but confirm with your supplier to make sure. I guess I must be old school.... when spraying heavy metalics I do a drop coat/control coat and even walk the length of the car on the final pass-but you you'll never see any mottling or stripes in my stuff. To each his own I guess. I was talking with a shop today that shoots PPG's envirobase and the painter told me they are taught by PPG to do a control coat still so I guess it isn't old school anymore.
 
I thought I would ask the question here so anyone wanting to use Pro Spray would know the answer to the question raised in "The Perfect Paint Job". My first time with SPI and I am following that to the letter.
 
Sanding certain brands of bases causes lifting, it doesn't matter who does it or how they do it, they aren't designed to be sanded. Contact the manufacturer and find out if it's acceptable.
 
Hey Mitch, I get it. Contact the manufacturer. I hope your feeling better.
 
It wasn't directed towards you, it was towards anotheridiot. He was making it seem like one person would be ok base sanding when another wouldn't. It's company specific, not person. I was trying to help you get the correct answer, however with your response I'm wondering if I was wasting my time.
 
No your not wasting your time. I re read your 06:33 thread and then went back and read the "The Perfect Paint Job". For your response and that article to come together, I really had to read both again. Now I get it. I apologize for shooting a barb in your direction. I should have been more patient and tried to figure out what I was not understanding before I reacted.
 
I have sent Chad an email asking him if Pro Spray could be sanded per the procedures outlined in SPI "The Perfect Paint Job" or if it was one of the 2-4 types of base coat than can not be sanded. I will share the information here when I get a response.
 
I don't know if it will help you, but here is a similar question I asked Barry about a week ago.

Me - Barry,

I see in the perfect paintjob you mention sanding the basecoat with fine grit sandpaper to remove nibs, runs, etc...

Do you always have to spray another 2 coats of base over the sanded basecoat, or can you spray clear directly over the sanded base?

If you have to put more base over it, my curiosity wonders why. Is it because of sanding scratches, evenness of color....?

Thank you, Mitch

Barry - This is an option choice only and cannot be done with Dupount or S&W bases, we when do this always puton another coat or two.
All we are trying to do is get the most perfect job we can.
 
You can't follow any guideline to a T if you ask me.. To me the perfect paint job should say apply coats until coverage is achieved, way to many variables to be that written in stone as so many try to follow it. For instance some colors may take 4-5 coats for coverage, such as many colors that have some transparency to them. Which sometimes helps with a deep looking base coat, while other colors will easily cover in 2 coats.. So if you follow these guidelines with a color that is hard to cover you wouldn't even have full coverage and you would be ready for clear. Now that being said it is just a guideline and can be tweaked to you're ability, for someone that does this stuff daily we can read that and learn some tips and adjust what we do and understand it more than someone who has never painted..

I haven't read the perfect paint job in quite some time and from what I remember it stated to clear twice.. While I agree with that 100% and think it makes for a exceptional finish, I also think it invites another session of painting that can cause another set of issues..

Point is sometimes when things are good we need to just leave them alone..

And if the base sprayed really good and you are happy with it, you don't even necessarily have to sand it to get a exceptional finish.

Now with all of that being said.. YES, you can sand Pro-Spray base coat, and yes I do usually nib it or sand it briefly, however I use foam pads.. they work great at knocking down dirt specs, or scuffing out a hair etc etc, but they are not something meant to use to flat sand the base, just to knock down on the trash.
 
Thats all I was getting at with what Chad said, you can get all the information you can, but one guys technique is never the same as the next.

there is a place on ebay that sells 24 x 24 sheets of .032 aluminum for 11.00. They are perfect for learning since you need to make more than one pass to cover it. You are worried about sanding your basecoat, you put some down and spray it on something you will be putting on the wall or taking with your aluminum cans to the scrap yard. We have tried spraying cheaper poster board, but it sucks in the paint and does not look right, but it will work.

People who try painting cars realize how extremely difficult it is to get the results, and planning on a perfect paint job for your first spray is rolling the dice. You need practice time. If you get it on your first try, then you might be the next great painter. I know I am far from being great, I want my son to be great, but just add some thoughts that seem to work so you can learn without sanding down your car again. He can scuff basecoat, my hand is too heavy and it gets ruined. Its all what works for you and your way. Its your paint job because you laid it down. 500.00 a gallon paint does not make you a better painter, a 1000.00 gun does not make you a better painter, experience does.

Sorry if I took the thread down the wrong path, my comments were more towards perfect paint job than a particular base. Mitch has a way of preaching instead of sharing ideas, I thought forums were made for sharing ideas. At least a pro painter like Chad agrees with just being set on a path, seems to agree with variables. Good luck outlaw. You never know til you try is a pretty good mindset.
 
I'm interested on how you consider me trying to stop someone from receiving bad advice preaching. I simply put that he should contact either the paint rep or company to find out whether their base was able to be sanded without lifting. I also said he should ask Barry about the Perfect Paint Job questions relating to base sanding since Barry wrote it. I never said that it couldn't be done, and I never said you were wrong for doing it. I was stating that some brands can't be sanded regardless of technique and the sure-fire way to find out is to contact them.

Forums are a place for sharing ideas. However, bad ideas can be shared as well. You have suggested to use POR15 and spray directly over rust in another thread. You will be hard pressed to find others on this forum, especially not your pro painters. Was I preaching when I said that was not a good idea as well?

If you are becoming offended because someone else is disagreeing with you, the forums may not be a good place for you.
 
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