Striping Corvette door jams

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Paul

I have yet another question for the corvette pros on here. Hey Barry, Hey Shine!  I know you don’t use striper on corvettes and you use a heat gun and razors, but how do you strip the jams? I’m working on a mid year coupe and you know how those jams are.. and one thing I can’t stand is to open the door on a nice job and the jam looks like crap.
Thankks
 
I hope Barry or Shine will chime in here....and I know I will get flamed for this, but we use aircraft stripper.....well rinsed and have had no trouble for 35 plus years...WELL RINSED and scrubbed....then WELL SANDED AND PRIMED WITH SPI EPOXY......capitals because you MUST do it this way if you're going to use stripper...Dave
 
Hey Flynams, don't worry, I’ll confess.... that's what I’ve always done also... I use that cheap Captain Lees stripper. it's like watered down aircraft remover so it's not as harsh. and, like you, i don't let it sit long. I was just wondering if there was a better way. i can't imagine how else to get into all those crannies.
 
Well, I have used paint stripper on many but I think in last 10 years, I have used my sandblaster BUT I'm good with it and using the coal slag and very low pressure, does not hurt a thing.
Would I recommend this to someone? No more then I would stripper as they both can be a disaster if not done right.
 
i blast them as well barry. the crushed recycled glass works great and does less damage to the fiberglass than the coal slag. if there is only one paintjob in the jambs you can do all if them in minutes. i will basically cut in the whole car with the blaster then da all the rest.
 
I use the coal slag in my blaster but I have never tried to strip fiberglass with it. I may have to try that on some old parts I have out back. I would like to have a soda blaster but I cant justify that. Well to the wife that is.. I would be fine with the idea.
 
I have one of those $13 hand held bag blasters for spots, I would never use the big one and I turn the air down as low as I can get it and carefully take off one layer of paint at a time and a lot of times will still leave some of the primer so I can hand sand off with 180, saves a lot of time and one coat of epoxy hides everything and second coat for fun as not a real fan of using a build primer in jambs.
 
oh ok, i thought you meant the preasurized blaster. I would really mess up with that. I agree with you, Barry, a couple coats of epoxy should seal them up just fine. thanks! then all i have to do is fit the doors (did i mention its a 65 coupe?) set the body on the frame and glue the front clip on it. sounds easy if you say it real fast.... :)
 
Paul;28214 said:
oh ok, i thought you meant the preasurized blaster. I would really mess up with that. I agree with you, Barry, a couple coats of epoxy should seal them up just fine. thanks! then all i have to do is fit the doors (did i mention its a 65 coupe?) set the body on the frame and glue the front clip on it. sounds easy if you say it real fast.... :)
Click to expand...

Sometimes it's better to have motor in so that you can get your radiator/fan/ fan shroud clearance correct...for some reason the coupe is harder than rag top... if it's not spot on, it'll be a redo.....don't ask how I know
 
I agree with you on the Flynams. i have everything in the frame except the tank and lines and i have them somewhere.. something about hoisting the engine and trans over my freshly finished car that gives me chills also..

View attachment 2289 65 Frame.jpg
 
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