Standard filler or Slick Sand?

The cheesegrater was a staple of all of our toolboxes some years ago when most bodyfillers were harder to sand. It also was popular (and probably the main reason it was used) with collision guys who had to get stuff done fast. Cave and pave. Apply the filler thick over the dents,sometimes even not working them out, cheesegrate it, hand sand the cheesegrate marks (if you didn't you had terrible pinholes later) then reapply filler.Just a tool to speed up and abuse the process.
If you are working your dents out correctly there is no need for a cheesegrater.
 
Evil_Fiz said:
Thank you both for the info.
I found this video on YT and it seems to match the advice you have provided. Is there something in the video I should be skeptical of or is it all sound information?

Body Filler The Easy Way, Stop Working So Hard!!​



- Do I wait for it to fully cure or dry before hitting it with the 36/40 grit?
- Should I use a DA with the heavy grit paper, or perform all filler shaping by hand?


I am unclear on the following:
- By "thinner" are you referring to generic paint thinner or a specific compound, i. e. Naphtha, mineral spirits, Etc?
- what do you mean by "green" filler, color, or state of ripeness/curing?

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Emil
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Emil, no I'm referring to thinner as in shop or cleanup grade lacquer thinner, you'll need it for various cleanups etc... from the autobody supply store. Green is what I've always called freshly cured polyester filler. It'll have a sort of sticky feel on the surface that will clog sandpaper when first breaking the surface, I use a paper towel or shop towel with thinner to wipe it off some and then start sanding. No need to go crazy with the thinner just wipe off the surface a bit. Makes a big difference in ease of initial sanding.
If you're not applying thick, wipe over it with thinner rag when it's fully cured and use your preference of 40 or 80 grit da or hand sand. If you apply thick you could cheese grate it when about 80% cured and still a little rubbery, mainly to knock the sticky coating and high spots off and then later da or hand sand when fully cured. It's a learning process, technique and application so just mix some and get it on there and learn from your mistakes.
 
Cheese grater, Stanley surform tool, without the handle, I just use the curved blades. I still have mine although I don't use them much anymore unless with fiberglass.
 
Good video. He uses really good techniques. Looks like he likes filler over epoxy. Says no marker but only pencil. He likes 2 part all the way through including activating base. Grater is only to knock down ridges.

Speed up the video to watch quickly.
 
crashtech said:
I cave and pave in my cave, and paint in 3D: Dark, damp & dirty! :p
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I bought a 56 Chevy 2 Dr sedan in 1967 when I turned 16. Body was straight and rust free except for the headlight brows and the outline of a dent probably 15" diameter behind the passenger door and above the rocker. Local Chevy dealer had it way at the back of their used car lot. Sold it to me for $150'including a new battery and sent me on my way. My dad had done body and paint work as a hobby ever since he returned from WW2, and I was counting on him to help me fix the rusty brows and the bondo filled dent.

I got the patch pieces for the brows and dad gas welded them in and leaded the joints, so it was time to tackle the dent. Pulled the upholstery panel off and we were both floored by how far the panel was pushed in. No evidence that any sort of body tool had ever touched the inside.

I had his big disc sander loaded up with a 7" 24 grit disc, ready to turn all that filler into a 5 gal bucket of dust which would, of course, end up spread from one end of the basement to the other. Dad took the sander and made a single pass around the diameter of the area, and told me to get him a ball peen and a wood chisel. ???? He says anybody lazy enough to glom on some mess like that would also be too lazy to get the metal clean, and the fact that you could see the original paint disappear under the filler sorta confirmed that. Probably took him 15-20 minutes to peck his way around the circle, and another 5 to work around it prying it loose, and the whole thing came off in one giant 15 lb slug that was 3 1/2" thick near the middle.

That was 55 years ago, but anytime I hear anyone talk about cave and pave, it instantly comes to mind as the worst example I've seen so far.
 
When I used slick sand I would spray 2 coats over black epoxy and block sand with 80 until it's mostly black epoxy showing. Sprayed two more coats and blocked it with 180 until I start seeing black epoxy then seal it with epoxy.
 
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