Standard filler or Slick Sand?

M

MAKZ06

Newbie
Inexperienced beginner question here... I’ve got my SPI epoxy down on the bare metal of my old 72 F100. I’ve used some Evercoat Rage Extreme on areas here and there where I welded in patches or on slight dings that I was afraid I would make worse trying to get it perfectly flat. Nothing over a 1/16” deep.
On the hood, I have some slight low spots that telegraph the location of the support ribs below. You can see the shiny triangular outlines after blocking the flats... Worst spots seem to be about 1/32-1/64”, most is less.
My question is, should I get these with a thin layer of the Rage Extreme before I spay the next layer of Epoxy? Or are these the areas that I should tackle when I spray the Slick Sand before blocking?
I planned to use the regular filler first, but I‘ve never used the Slick Sand before and thought I would ask.
I unfortunately don’t have enough years left in me to acquire the skills some of you guys have for getting a panel perfect without filler. Thanks
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'68 Coronet R/T said:
If you are planning on using the polyester primer anyway it should handle those areas just fine. Anything deeper would require filler first to save on material.
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That’s good to know. I think I will use the standard filler in the deeper spots and let the Slick sand fill the shallowest areas that have some shine but also got hit with some of the scratches while blocking. Thanks
 
Hard to be sure from pics, but some of those areas I'd probably prefer to start with a light filler such as evercoat metal glaze or dolphin glaze. Poly primer can go reasonably thick, but a little more chance of future cracking. For low spots that aren't more than lets say 1 to 3 sheets of paper thick, I sometimes spray 1 to 3 coats more of poly primer with fan narrowed at low spots first before coating whole area.

Used right, poly primer can be a real time saver as opposed to swiping on filler & sanding a larger extra volume of it off. Properly balanced use between the 2 products will give your fastest result times.
 
crashtech said:
Those patterns can also be caused by sanding with too much pressure.
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The low shiny spots are where the actual ribs are attached directly below. I would have assumed that if pushing too hard the areas directly above the ribs would be the areas would get hit by the abrasives first.
I can definitely feel a slight low/dip along those areas that didn’t get hit when lightly blocking. I’m doing my best to use light pressure and have been frequently changing abrasive paper.
thanks for the tip.
 
crashtech said:
Those patterns can also be caused by sanding with too much pressure.
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texasking said:
Crash hit the nail on the head. Coarse paper and very light pessure is the only way to get those types of hoods straight.
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These guys are exactly right. Have to be very careful with those old truck hoods. On the last one I did all the blocking with the hood standing vertically, on it's end, and that's the way I will do all of them going forward. I'm not familiar with Ford trucks, but on the Chevy's there is a thin piece of foam that goes between the inner hood frame and the skin. At a minimum, have that glued in where it needs to be before trying to get it blocked straight.
 
Definitely agree with something needs to be done between hood skin & bracing.
Seen way too many people get as far as paint & find out their still chasing spots in hood. You could get by with either fire retardant spray foam or a good urethane caulk, but SEM makes a NVH product specifically for that sort of use.
So do yourself a favor & apply something appropriate between skin & bracing before any more sanding. Ok to apply more filler now where you know you need it.

Dual-Mix™ Flexible Urethane Foam | SEM Products

Dual-Mix™ Flexible Urethane Foam is a two-component, urethane, expanding foam that stops vibration and dampens sound in most voids.
www.semproducts.com www.semproducts.com
 
superbuild 4:1 is my poly of choice, but Ive been wanting to try some of that clausons all you need poly.
 
jlcustomz said:
Definitely agree with something needs to be done between hood skin & bracing.
Seen way too many people get as far as paint & find out their still chasing spots in hood. You could get by with either fire retardant spray foam or a good urethane caulk, but SEM makes a NVH product specifically for that sort of use.
So do yourself a favor & apply something appropriate between skin & bracing before any more sanding. Ok to apply more filler now where you know you need it.

Dual-Mix™ Flexible Urethane Foam | SEM Products

Dual-Mix™ Flexible Urethane Foam is a two-component, urethane, expanding foam that stops vibration and dampens sound in most voids.
www.semproducts.com www.semproducts.com
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Bracing appears to be consistently tight and attached to the hood skin above. Nowhere I can press down on the skin above any underlying bracing and feel it move closer against the brace. That’s in contrast to another spare f100 hood I have which is completely detached from the gracing below in many areas and I already knew I would have to deal with reattaching with some sort of adhesive if I ever do anything with it. When I did some sanding on it several years ago I could feel it moving and flexing all over the place. The one I’m working on above seems very solid.
 
I already purchased the Slick Sand so I’m committed with it... I’ll sure look in to the other suggestions if I ever get this one finished and can get to my old Cougar...
 
MAKZ06 said:
I already purchased the Slick Sand so I’m committed with it... I’ll sure look in to the other suggestions if I ever get this one finished and can get to my old Cougar...
Click to expand...
Slick Sand has a bit of orange peel when sprayed, be sure to spray enough coats to block through this and make it flat or you'll find yourself having to spray more to fill the texture, put it all on at once and block once.
 
Slofut said:
Slick Sand has a bit of orange peel when sprayed, be sure to spray enough coats to block through this and make it flat or you'll find yourself having to spray more to fill the texture, put it all on at once and block once.
Click to expand...
Will do. Good tip. Thanks.
 
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