Single Stage Urethane

Prprop143

Promoted Users
I'm curious about using a single stage Urethane paint and mix a clear in the base color on the final coats. This would be used for less expensive jobs where money stops a lot of projects from moving forward. My normal go to is basecoat/clearcoat product from SPI, but was curious on this group's take on it.

Thanks
 
I really don't see the need to mix clear with last coats on ss, especially when cut and buffed, except to complicate spot repairs. Spi ss presents as deep a color (black is my experience) as any b/c, possibly more depth. Is extra clear for uv protection? I don't think it needs it.
 
It's a matter of choice by the painter, some never mix clear on last coat and some always do.
Just remember whatever SS and clear you are using activate both seperate with their own activators before combining.
What’s the benefit in doing this? Just better fade protection?

And is a glamour coat ever done with SS, where it’s sanded 600 and then spray an additional several coats?
 
What’s the benefit of doing this? Just better fade protection?

And is a glamour coat ever done with SS, where it’s sanded 600 and then spray an additional several coats?
Yes, you would gain a little more color protection but questionable. Some say using it in the last coat will make it buff easier.
Some shops I have heard get color coverage and the last coat mix say 50/50 and then shoot just clear on the next one and maybe a 2nd coat. This is on reds and other med colors.
I'd say the most common I hear is spray ss today and 2 to 4 coats of clear the next day.

Blacks too much could maybe start milking if too much clear is used but never seen or heard of it happening.

Edit forgot have heard of 600 or 800 and then clear but not often.
 
I sprayed a metallic 1k once. SW told me if I want it to not get chalky in 3 months I need to clear it. Turned out pretty good.
 
And is a glamour coat ever done with SS, where it’s sanded 600 and then spray an additional several coats?
First higher end shop I worked at we would do that all the time. Mostly on street rod stuff. Spray 3 coats of PPG DCC (Concept) then sand with 600, and spray 3 more. Then cut and buff. Only solid colors. Always looked good doing that way.
 
First higher end shop I worked at we would do that all the time. Mostly on street rod stuff. Spray 3 coats of PPG DCC (Concept) then sand with 600, and spray 3 more. Then cut and buff. Only solid colors. Always looked good doing that way.
What would be the advantage of clearing over SS vs just doing a BC/CC? Ive done lots of SS and bc/cc, just never intigrated the two.
 
What would be the advantage of clearing over SS vs just doing a BC/CC? Ive done lots of SS and bc/cc, just never intigrated the two.
What I referred to we didn't clear it. 3 coats of SS, sand, then 3 more coats of SS. I have never been a fan of clearing over SS. Nothing wrong with it, but if you want the SS look then clearing it defeats that to some extent. Where you would clear it is when repairing/blending SS.
 
First higher end shop I worked at we would do that all the time. Mostly on street rod stuff. Spray 3 coats of PPG DCC (Concept) then sand with 600, and spray 3 more. Then cut and buff. Only solid colors. Always looked good doing that way.
How is this supposed to make it look better? And would you say it's pretty noticeable over cut and buff after just 3 coats? The 70 truck I'll be painting this summer is solid color (red and a white roof) and I've been debating whether I want to glamour coat it, if it would be worth the additional time and expense. It's my uncle's truck, he's not planning on showing it, but I just like to do things well.
 
How is this supposed to make it look better? And would you say it's pretty noticeable over cut and buff after just 3 coats? The 70 truck I'll be painting this summer is solid color (red and a white roof) and I've been debating whether I want to glamour coat it, if it would be worth the additional time and expense. It's my uncle's truck, he's not planning on showing it, but I just like to do things well.
It has a noticeably deeper, richer, shine. Some colors show it more than others. Plus being there is more material it will last longer. And stand up to multiple buffings over the years. Hard to quantify it exactly. Do a hood half and half (cutting and buffing both) and you will see the difference. It's really no different than clearing/sanding/clearing.
Something like your Uncle's truck may not be a candidate for it. We did it because the cars were all street rods.
 
Because the Color is IN the SS.
You Clear coat it which is Above the Color.
Think candy metallic...doesn't pop till you Clear it which gives it the Depth necessary for effect.
The addition of a clear Over a SS gives it Depth.
Might not be exactly what you call it but what my conclusion was from doing it.
 
Because the Color is IN the SS.
You Clear coat it which is Above the Color.
Think candy metallic...doesn't pop till you Clear it which gives it the Depth necessary for effect.
The addition of a clear Over a SS gives it Depth.
Might not be exactly what you call it but what my conclusion was from doing it.
We’re not talking about clearing it, just sanding 600 after 3 coats SS and then another 3 coats SS followed by cut and buff (which is what they call me).
 
Liz 3 Coats ? :D
I was referring to Clear over SS and the apparent difference in it's look. And why.
I prefer Black SS over SPI'S Black Base/Clear.
SPI Black base is very unforgiving imo. Your "everything" under It better be Right or you'll know quickly.
Beautiful color. The BEST Black you can spray.
 
Liz 3 Coats ? :D
I was referring to Clear over SS and the apparent difference in it's look. And why.
I prefer Black SS over SPI'S Black Base/Clear.
SPI Black base is very unforgiving imo. Your "everything" under It better be Right or you'll know quickly.
Beautiful color. The BEST Black you can spray.
Yes, refer back to post #14.
 
Back
Top