Single stage and rock chip prevention

Mission

Promoted Users
Hello. More questions. I didn't want to hijack @dhutton01's 69 Mustang thread. My 1995 Corvette sits very low and will also see 130 MPH in short bursts. I am painting it with SPI Black Single Stage with SPI Black epoxy as a base. Can I add some kind of hardener besides the activator to be less prone to chips? The reason I ask is a friend mine was telling me he painted a truck once and it had a bunch of rock chips in short order. Going back and forth with DuPont for a solution, they told him to put 2 capfuls of hardener in it and it solved his problem. I don't know what paint it was or if it was BC/CC, so I can't relay that information. It piqued my curiosity. Thanks again!
 

dhutton01

Promoted Users
He was most likely told to add activator to his base. It doesn’t apply to single stage.

Best thing you can do is use a reduced epoxy sealer to get a good bond to the single stage. I reduce it 25%.

Don
 

Mission

Promoted Users
Right now I have 2 coats of epoxy drying and plan to sand it with 600 Monday (I have a few pieces close to ready). I was going to paint it after that, (within the time frame). So I only have to put down the 4 coats of color. What I should be doing is sanding what I have with 600, apply a coat of reduced epoxy and 4 coats of color? I should lay the 5 final coats of paint in one session? I always fight dirt. Sorry if I'm being dense.
 

Mission

Promoted Users
I decided to paint the body first, so it took a little longer. I'm not complaining, I just have a few questions so I am extending this thread. I think i have excessive orange peel. I'm not sure what I'm not doing right. It's laying down pretty wet, ( I have 2 minor sags).This paint is easy enough to sand, so it's no big deal for the most part, but the gill panels and moldings will be challenging to buff, so I'd like to get a better technique. I have an Iwata LPH 400, with a silver cap. My fan is 1 1/4 turns out. It's about 7 or so inches wide. My fluid is 2.5 turns out. My pressure is 31 psi with the trigger pulled. I have a 5 horse compressor with a 60 gallon tank that keeps up fine. if i make my fan any wider, I have to move really slow and it doesn't work out for me and looks really crappy. I'm already going slow at these settings. Maybe I'm too far away, It feels like I'm right on top of it. Pictures attached. I'm shooting SPI single stage with very slow activator, 4 coats on top of 25% reduced epoxy that flashed for about 4 hours. Like I said, I'm not complaining, making another orange peel thread. I'd like to get sharper. TIA.
 

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texasking

Promoted Users
Did the first coat have too much orange peel? The first coat needs to look like it is finished. If it has too much texture, with every coat a little more is added. It is not easy to get that many coats to lay down slick, for anybody. Looks fine.
 

Mission

Promoted Users
The first coat was not my best effort. I cleaned the gun the night before and had it set wrong at first. I tried the fan settings others use and did not like it. Thanks for pointing that out.
 

sprint_9

Rookie
Something to try.

Hold your gun where you spray at, then with the other hand and a tape measure see how far away from the panel you are. Depending on what you find there take a cut down paint stick and tape it to the gun so it sticks out about 5 to no more than 6 inches from the tip, that's about how far you probably should be from the panel. Leave that stick on and run through the motions several times to get a feel for it and get comfortable. I usually ran my fan all the way out, then back in a 1/2 to 1 turn.

Always double check your settings before you spray and hit a quick test pattern on the wall. One that bit me once was the little air knob on the bottom of the gun, make sure its backed all the way out.
 

Barry

Paint Fanatic
Staff member
Reduce stone chipping:
Epoxy as a sealer and spray the single-stage 5 to 6 " away from the panel, 8" will increase stone chipping, and adding extra iso will also make paint harder, and you do not want that; flex is what you want.
 

Mission

Promoted Users
Reduce stone chipping:
Epoxy as a sealer and spray the single stage we 5 to 6 " away from pane, 8" will increase stone chipping and adding extra iso will also make paint harder and you do not want that, flex is what you want.
What do mean by adding extra iso? By reducing it?
 

Mission

Promoted Users
I went to seal my hood and was 2 trigger pulls short of completion when my cup went dry. Will the reduced epoxy shorten my recoat window or do I still have 7 days? I was going to sand the edges where I ran out of sealer and put another coat of sealer on as long as I get the epoxy within the recoat window. I thinned it 50% on this coat. Thoughts?
 

Chris_Hamilton

Trying to be the best me, I can be
No you do not have 7 days if you reduced it for a sealer. If you mixed it 1:1:1 (50% reduction) you only have a matter of hours. Sand before you re-coat.

Keep in mind too that the same holds true for applying base over reduced epoxy. You need to get your base on before it goes out of the re-coat window. Applying it 1:1:1 means you need to be ready to shoot your base in 45 minutes up to 3 hours or so after applying. Barry can give you exact times but those are pretty safe and what I usually go by. If you need more time reduce your epoxy less. 1:1:25% down to 1:1:10%. You have a loger re-coat window when you use less reducer.
 
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Mission

Promoted Users
Should I wait to re-sand my hood with 400 for sealer until the black epoxy ships? I don't want to sand it too soon and have to redo it. Thanks
 
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