B
bubjel
Been using it on my latest project; stuff doesn't seem to shrink at all in a cup.
B
Bob Hollinshead
Fairly safe to say you won't see any shrinkage after 12hrs.
I think, like Bob, once the acetone is out the PE is so high solids as it did shrink over time, it would not be enough to see.
Never have heard of a PE shrinking when used, only complaint is the fuzzing of paint after a couple of years and they were show cars and the owner never noticed but the painters did.
Never have heard of a PE shrinking when used, only complaint is the fuzzing of paint after a couple of years and they were show cars and the owner never noticed but the painters did.
shine
Member
had an email yesterday from someone repairing a fiberglass trunk. filled a license plate hole. used poly resin , duraglass , poly primer. edge ghosted back on him.
on lloyds 41 i welded the trunk holes in . used duraglass to finish. put it in the sun and it shows, pull it in and let it cool and it's gone.
corvette seams ghosting back using polyester .
these are the type problems i have had over the years with polyester .
any thoughts ?
on lloyds 41 i welded the trunk holes in . used duraglass to finish. put it in the sun and it shows, pull it in and let it cool and it's gone.
corvette seams ghosting back using polyester .
these are the type problems i have had over the years with polyester .
any thoughts ?
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bubjel
What's this fuzziness & ghosting we speak of?
Was it from the poly primer?
Not using epoxy for final sand & not sealing with epoxy?
I want & need to know, because I see it on 90% of show cars.
Was it from the poly primer?
Not using epoxy for final sand & not sealing with epoxy?
I want & need to know, because I see it on 90% of show cars.
B
Bob Hollinshead
shine;1142 said:
The edge ghosting thing is from differing absorbtion rates between the products used-period IMO, if a sealer was applied it wasn't doing it's job when paint was applied. I've never seen any ghosting with poly primer if the work was finished with a good solvent resistant primer/sealer. I have seen ghosting when painting directly over polyprimer.
The now you see it now you don't issue with polyester products in different temperatures is related to the difference in expansion rates between the glass/metal/polyester filler-common, and more common on fiberglass reinforced filler on metal for some reason, also definately most common when the filler thickness is excessive. I have a hood that sinks in cool weather then pops up when the engine reaches temp-this is filler expansion and contraction, yes-I put the filler in that hood.... damn tiawan piece of tinfoil garbage!
I've also seen weld lines show up in the sun-this you will see mostly on welds that haven't been ground flush-the thicker weld retains more heat than the surrounding metal and will transfer it to the filler that expands and highlights the weld line. A good example of expansion/contraction failures is the usual poor success rate with bonding a fiberglass scoop to a steel hood using polyester products-I've got a good proceedure for doing this and the first step is epoxy primer and an adhesive that makes up for the difference in expansion. I haven't had any poor polyester related results in a very long time. IMO just a matter of knowing what works, application, and quality products. There's some really cheap mud out there-cheap as in poor quality IMO Time to get to work...
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Deleted member 7
That was really good info Bob.. thanks for posting that up bout the welds etc.. I was not aware of that, however I always grind mine flush and duraglass over them
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flynams
shine;1142 said:
Thoughts from an old glasshole....poly resin has been whorred out so bad that it is impossible to know for sure what you're getting...for now, vinylester is much better and I like it better than some epoxies because, they are also on the new whore list...the above putty that shine mentioned, for us, is a huge problem EVERY TIME....and I believe, shine, your problem...it's like welding steel with aluminum rod