SANDING RUNS

[jcclark]

I always like sanding the heads off the runs as quick as possible, that way
the remainder will harden up faster making it easier to remove later.
You can't do it to soon or you'll tear it so I came up with s handy little wood block that
I can use coarse paper on (like 180) to pre sand the run without hitting the surrounding
area. The coarse paper makes short work of it.
The tape on the ends is applied in enough layers to be slightly higher
than the stick on paper. Sandpapers vary in thickness so the number of tape layers will vary
with the paper.

 

[Barry]

Great advice Jim, I use 320 with my fingers to level the run with the clear next to it, sanding floor to ceiling not touching the clear next to it, then I stick it with 800 as a block.

 

[OJ86]

I also found a trick i use a sharpie marker and color the entire area and use that as a guide coat.. Works great on all colors minus black, lol

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

I like the block with tape idea. Usually I try to sand with paper wrapped around a hard block or like Barry using a finger but both are time consuming. I think your block with tape method is the ticket to getting it done quickly and yet safely. Could even start with more layers of tape to knock peaks off and then gradually remove one layer of tape at a time and work down to flush.

 

[shine]

i use 2 in tape over runs. wet sand with 320 to cut the tape . big one will take 2 times but when done the sag is gone and i have not touched the surrounding area .

 

[cstevens71]

Not sure if I can offer much here yet , but I tried the putty method on mine , and its my first time sanding a run. came out perfect and was easy to do , so it has merits.The logic behind it is sound , the paint goes down with the putty , while the putty protects the surrounding finish...I was like wtf when I seen it on youtube , but it works great.

 

[Barry]

Cstevens, that system works very well, I have done that a few times with Icing bottom line is what ever system gives you the results you want--works,

 

[crashtech]

Putting putty on clear just seems really weird and scary to me. I assume you would not want to do this with fresh clear? How old was the paint on that 'vette?

 

[Jorge M.]

Crash..... I've done the putty thing with clearcoat that just sat overnight, maybe 12hrs. I only do that when it's close to a body line when it's difficult to just use a small block. Haven't had a problem yet, light or dark colors has made no difference.

Just my two cents of experience.

 

[Chad.S]

I use the method Barry mentioned except that I I don't jump to 800, after I get the run out with my finger I block the area with 500 trying to blend it all in then go to 800, however if I get a run I will typically add another coat so I have something to work with. The thing I don't like about these methods is that it makes the panel very flat and on some jobs you don't want that, such as a collision type job where you are trying to match the original finish,, But either way you still have to get the run out, even if you are going to re-clear to match a factory finish...

 

[DATEC]

That putty tip is new to me. I never would have thought of doing that but it must have worked for ya.

 

[strum456]

I have tried everything mentioned above except the glazing putty method and I've had success with all of them. But honestly, all I do anymore is just sand the runs off with 320 stuck to a 1/4 piece of Plexiglass. I take the run out at least 95% with 320 dry then I go to 600 wet on the same hard block. By that time the run is completely gone and I go to 800, 1000, etc.. I have seen runs come back too many times (even if initially cut open) , so if I can help it, I try not to mess with them for a few weeks.

 

[jcclark]

I have tried everything mentioned above except the glazing putty method and I've had success with all of them. But honestly, all I do anymore is just sand the runs off with 320 stuck to a 1/4 piece of Plexiglass. I take the run out at least 95% with 320 dry then I go to 600 wet on the same hard block. By that time the run is completely gone and I go to 800, 1000, etc.. I have seen runs come back too many times (even if initially cut open) , so if I can help it, I try not to mess with them for a few weeks.

the longer the better... for sure

 

[true65mustang]

A cool trick with runs is you use tape tape off the run about 3/8" away from it. Then mix some dolphin glaze or similar. Applicate it on the run and then. Use a paint stick snap it into about 3" long. then use some 800g paper, and with the paint stick as a sanding block and wet sad the run out.

 

[true65mustang]

For a sag you can do similar to the dolphin glaze if it has a big to it. Then on the light sags you can take a razor blade. Tap the corners off on the blade. Then you can keep the blade flat and cut the runs and sag out.