Repaint over fresh paint job

D

Dwayne

I did a black base, clear overall paint job on my car about 3 months ago. I had several bad runs in different areas on the car. In the clear coat. All my own doing, not the clears fault. Temp had dropped to 34 degrees. I sanded runs out and had quite a few burn throughs to the base and the 2k primer. At this point I'm considering a redo on the base and the clear. Can I base over the clear or do I need to seal the car again. Also can I panel paint the car and have the color match.
Thanks
 
What I do when having to spot in places is to put several light coats of color over the burn thru till coverage is achieved. Then reclear entire panel. I had to do this recently on a panel that was metallic red. You shouldn't have to reseal anything unless you went to metal.
 
I used southern poly. It was my fault . We had some nice days towards end of November. Temp dropped to 34 degrees. I should have waited till spring. I have had quite a few burn throughs to the primer. I was going to blend them. But I think it would be better to repaint base. I have plenty extra material left over. I have to fix burn thoughs in fenders to. That's why I was wandering if I could panel paint one at time and have color match. It's a black base.
 
When I screwed up Barry just had me sand the clear then walk up and hit the places I needed to fix with a couple coats of base then shoot it all with 3 more coats of UC. This was with SPI Orange non metallic
 
Black should be no problem. do you have a heated place or will you wait till spring ? Go lite coats on base,hope no reaction or lifting of base edges.
 
I'm waiting till spring for warmer weather. I fixed a spot on hood and blended it. The base is a really great product. Had no trouble at all with lifting or peeling. I recleared the whole hood with 3 nice coats. I'm just worried about the body of car, quarter panels where clear was thin and burned to base. Also the heavy run areas I sanded, where I burnt to the 2 K primer.
 
before next paint, research your methods for sanding runs. You really need a hard flat surface to carefully a little at a time block down the height of a run. Doing a little at a time can help the extra thick part gas out & become less soft & gummy than the surrounding area. You can buy paint nib blocks, which are just a small smooth file to start the process.

We'd all like to say we never get runs or burn throughs, but without personally making mistakes we'd never know how to fix or prevent them.

For all the grief people give doing a solid black paint job, it is at least more forgiving for blend ins & color match and varying color thickness than many other finishes.
 
The runs will show if they weren't sanded right. I'd recommend re-primering those areas and blocking them to make sure you don't see the ghosts of runs past looking back at you from that shiny black paint job.
 
The runs were in the clear coat. The base laid down nice. Will that make a difference. Or would it still be a good idea just to prime, like you were saying.
Thanks
 
You're better off priming again. If runs aren't completely flat blocked they could show up faintly after everything cures and dries out. I have seen it happen. Just reprime the affected areas and you should be OK.
 
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I am not sure if this will show though my clear coat. I primed and block sanded runs and the base coated again. I am also concerned about sand scratches. I finished primed and blocked areas with wet sand 600. But still see quite slot of sand scratches. Also I have a late area in another spot that looks like solvent popping. Not sure if I should wet sand and rebase.
 
Barry told me the UC will fill scratches down to about 400 grit with no problem. I can't say I have tested that but with my limited experience painting I believe that to be true.
 
Hard to tell with the pics but some of those scratches in the last pic look pretty deep. Without being able to lay eyes on it I'd say there is a chance some of them will show through. I'd proceed with caution, perhaps do one panel as a test and see how it looks. Also your scratches seem to be going all over the place. Final sands it's best to try and sand in one direction only. Meaning scratches are all going in one direction. If you have enough base (assume you are using SPI base) you could get some 600-800 grit, for you I'd recommend 800 and CAREFULLY do a final sand on the base. Keep the scratches going in one direction (meaning back and forth no crisscrossing) use very light pressure and keep the panel wet at all times. Use a block that has some conformability to it. Don't use too hard a block. Sand until the base looks "even" meaning you see it start to flatten out. Then come back with a couple of medium coats giving it plenty of time to flash in between. That should get rid of most of your scratches and those that remain should cover when you clear.
 
I have plenty of base left over. I think I am going to just wet sand again with higher grit 800. I used 600 last time before painting. I am concerned about what looks like solvent pop , so Its probably best to just do it. I am also thinking of just hitting it with some reduced epoxy , before base coating again. I also did my 2 front fenders and they turned out good, but I sealed them . I didn't want to put anymore sealer on car because it already had recent sealer and base applied to it. I just had to redo it because some runs from earlier pain job showed though.
Thank you
 
Sand the base, re-base and clear. Don't worry about putting on more epoxy that won't necessarily help anything. Just will increase the millage on the panels.
 
I know is been a while. I have the same issues how fo you fixed it? I'm thinking about rebase and clear but I'm not sure if I'm going to have issues it's been 4 months
 
I wanted to cut and buff but I cut through the clear coat in a few spots. I haven't spray the bed of the truck yet and was thinking about doing all at the same time but I'm worry about issues like clear lifting solvent pop
 
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