Refinishing OE Paint

K

Karmin

Again I hope I am posting this in the right area.

I'm currently in the process of refinishing my car. It's in decent shape... no major body work, just parking lot dings. No rust even. Porsche used galvanized panels and it seems it worked. If anyone can offer some guidance on what I need to do? I'm not looking for a show car. I'm definitely looking for Wow! Nice Car!. It will be my daily driver. A lot of the posts on other forums regarding refinishing are more directed at strip down to bare metal and stuff.

Thanks in advance
Karmin
 
How old is the car? Color? Condition of paint; ie glossy and good condition or faded and peeling? Knowing the year will help determine whether the factory paint is solid enough to serve as a foundation for the repaint.
 
Car is a 94 Porsche in Guards Red. The paint was decent. No peeling but had bad oxidation. I think it was originally ss paint. It must have sat in the sun before my time since the side panels were good, whereas the hood and trunk were faded.
 
If it is the original paint, then it is Glasurit urethane SS.
A very good and stable paint but the pigments are oxidizing and basically the paint is dead all the way through.
Perfect way is DA all or as much of the color off that you can and then apply two coats of epoxy to lock down and go from there.
 
If you DA the paint off you will sand off the galvanizing. I would use a chemical stripper.
 
Usually the primer or undercoats, if original paint will be in good shape and he should be able to stop there, or that is what I was thinking, anyway.
 
I wouldn't use chemical stripper unless you plan to take all the paint and primer off. I'd do like Barry suggests-sand most of the paint off. 180 grit on a DA shouldn't take long if it's all in original paint and oxidized, you can start with 80 grit if needed. Do a few panels at a time to keep the project manageble. Two coats of epoxy then you can go straight to a primer surfacer for block sanding if there isn't any bodywork to do. Use guidecoat on your primer.
 
Guess I'll try DA first. If that doesn't work, I can always strip after. I basically just didn't want to hit bare metal. So 2 coats epoxy, bodywork, primer surfacer. Should I use sealer b4 topcoat? Also, I know there's a lot of different opinions out there, but should I stick with ss or bc/cc?

Thanks for the quick replies.
 
One coat of epoxy reduced as a sealer before paint is applied works best for me, a regular urethane sealer is also fine. If you're after the best durability go with a singlestage paint with clear over it-easy to do if your color is a solid nonmetalic red. If this is new territory for you spend some time studying up the recoat times for all products and also surface texture requirements, cleaning and also spraying instructions. And safety/health concerns.
 
by surface texture, do you mean what grit sandpaper? safety/health is what scared me at first. but the more I read, the more confident I'm getting. I've outfitted my garage with a belt drive exhaust fan with the fan outside the air stream. The actual exhaust is about 5 ft downwind of the fan. Filters all over intake and exhaust. the filter on the exhaust side has an activated carbon filter to hopefully catch more of the bad stuff before it escapes outside. I purchased an SAS dedicated air system that runs off my compressor (I'll be using a small compressor located far away from the exhaust so that I don't get compressed isocyanates).
 
I didn't want to start a new thread when my question is similar to this threads topic.

I have a 66 Chevy Truck.
I'm also not looking for showroom looks, but rather preservation.

Fortunately, my truck has very little rust. It was a county truck, and looks to be well maintained.
The original paint is county orange.

I plan on taking most everything down to metal. But areas that are obviously in great shape, I'm wondering if I really have to take it down to bare metal before I epoxy.

The inside of my cab is also all metal.
I really don't want to have to take it all down to bare metal. I would rather just scuff it and spray it with epoxy.

So ultimately, my question is;
Do I need to remove the original 66 paint, or can I scuff it with 80 and epoxy over it?
 
45 year old paint, most likely lacquer or maybe enamel, yes it all should come off if you want the job to last. The inside of the cab isn't subjected to the environment as much as the exterior so the paint might be in decent condition-you might be able to scuff it up good with a red scotchbright and clean it well then shoot your epoxy.
 
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