Rebuilding Compressor

On my small construction compressors the drain valve always gets clogged up but its a small 1/4 valve, an old compressor like yours would most definitely be clogged with rust!
 
Oh it was plenty clogged. It drains good now.

On motor guard filter is it literally a roll of toilet paper as filter? Or do you have to buy their expensive one? I didn't see this covered elsewhere. Bought 50 feet of copper tubing for cooling. Getting closer.
 
they come with a cartridge but i just use toilet paper. you'll notice the toilet paper will turn yellow from the oil.
 
where would that fall in the chain?

This is what I have currently planned in order from start:

Compressor, 50' coil of copper tubing 1/2" OD (might be in a bucket of water for cooling), Ingersoll Rand 5 micron oil/water filter (I think this is the one I got http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200392579_200392579), then I was thinking the Motorguard filter, hose, then gun, with an additional desiccant filter on it.

Not perfect, but leaps better than anything I've used in the past and hopefully good enough to get a daily driver job done.


I believe I read that you (Shine) suggested the T handle facing down on that filter, so that is opposite what mfg recommends? I"m sure there's a good reason, just like to learn.

Thanks!
 
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I buy motorguard filters by the box they come in four for 25-30 bucks. They last me a good long while. I don't paint every day all day. Plus I have it over 50 ft away from the compressor with multiple drop leg drains before the motorguard filter. I have always hung mine on the wall upright. You can drag it around on the floor if ya want. That is why some ppl call it a drag pot.
 
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i mount mine with the lines coming in and out at the top. anything in the canister will remain in it until i change it out . i put a new roll of toilet paper in for every session. believe me nothing gets past toilet paper. the filter is mounted on the wall after the moisture trap/regulator in the booth . kind of like a last line of defense . screw those ball filters. i can write a book on failure from those pos things .

the first filter is about 1 ft from the compressor.

it has been mentioned about a coil in a barrel of water. i have done this for years. BUT you cant run a coil in the barrel without a drain at the bottom of the coil. otherwise you end up with a coil full of water. run one coil in to a t fitting in the bottom with a drain through the bottom of the barrel. then run a coil up from that and out the top. water in the shade will stay around 60 degrees until hot summer but it can be changed regularly. this was our hillbilly air dryers of years ago. it works extremely well.
 
the 5 hp quincy would work well for you. the 3 hp wont help you at all. the ingersol rand is another pos 3 hp advertised as a 5 hp.
 
I'm leaning towards 5HP Quincy. And I can have a little knowledge in the back of my mind that says Shine Approved. It tells me I shouldn't have to buy another compressor. Maintain it, yes, buy another one, likely not.
 
just never use your compressor to blow out a shop or run a sandblaster. 2 of the worst things you can do. i bought a good leaf blower for blowing out my shop. the continuous usage for that or blasting is hard on them.
quincy has always built a good unit.
 
shine;21687 said:
the 5 hp quincy would work well for you. the 3 hp wont help you at all. the ingersol rand is another pos 3 hp advertised as a 5 hp.
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What is it you don't like about the IR ?

The Ingersoll Rand uses a motor that is rated at 23 amps @ 240v, the Quincy is 21 amps @ 240v.
 
if you look around you will find that the ir is the same as a 3hp compressor. this got started with the hf and sams club type sales. i do not believe that is a true 5hp pump or motor.

the man who i buy my electric motors from told me years ago that if it does not state the hp rating on the motor but rather has spl on it to run backwards. he told me never buy a motor with dual compaciters on it. if that square box on the quincy has 2 of them under it i would pass on it too.
my 5 hp will dwarf those.
 
I'll have a look at the Quincy tomorrow. It's a hard pill to swallow when I know there are only a few jobs that will need it, then it will spend a lot of time with little use that would demand that kind of output/volume.
 
Can someone explain in simple the difference between why capacitor start vs magnetic start. Keep in mind, I'm NOT a pro and this is my sideline hobby. Endless cash flow isn't my situation.
 
Does anyone use a Champion compressor? They looked pretty nice for the $$$ in the TP Tools catalog I had sitting around here, but I can't say that I've heard anyone on this forum talk about using one.
 
Champions are nice, but $$$.

Looking at the warranty, Quincy comes out the clear winner. 2 years standard, and buy a $47 "Maintenance Kit" to extend the warranty to 5 years, compared to 1 year standard, 2 years with kit for the Ingersoll. Quincy also labels their product USA made, where the Ingersoll does not, though it may be made here, I don't know.
 
kerristallax;21708 said:
Does anyone use a Champion compressor? They looked pretty nice for the $$$ in the TP Tools catalog I had sitting around here, but I can't say that I've heard anyone on this forum talk about using one.
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I was also looking at the champions. But they list thier cfm @125psi vs 175psi so i was wondering if it fell short on the cfm. I was debating on the quincy 80 gallon 5hp with magnetic start or the champion 80 gallon with 7.5 hp for close to the same price. The quincy uses baldor motors and champion uses a.o. smith? Champion does make good compressor but in the 5hp range the quincy ...blew it away...haha
 
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