Question for the corvette folks

C

carolinacustoms

I may be painting a 94 corvette soon (customer is undecided as of now). The paint and clear are intact and not really that bad, just the usual minor daily driver scratches, that are not through the clear, and generally showing it's age and just too bad to buff out. Should be a straight forward repaint for the most part, save a few places, hence my question. I have heard a lot about corvettes being somewhat problematic and wanted some input and advice from those of you that deal with them regularly. There are a few places that the paint is cracking, not like lacquer spider webs, think of late model front bumper versus curb type cracking. The cracks are about 4-6" long and from what I can see only involve the paint, not the body. It looks like it has flexed enough to crack the paint without damaging the panels. These cracks are one spot on the front bumper, one on the hood just above the one's on the bumper and one place on the rear above the tail lights on the driver side (where a normal car has a trunk lid). What is the best way to deal with these? It would seem that sanding them to the bare panel, feathering in the area and then using glaze, or primer etc whatever is needed to make the repair would be a likely course of action, but I have sen these repairs fail on bumper covers etc, and that makes me question the right way to do things on this car. The car is black, so it will have to be exceptionally well done. This guy is also planning to show the car when he gets everything finished. Also, I have heard of problems on the newer corvettes when using W&G remover on bare panels? It apparently soaks in and causes bubbles/blistering later on? I am open to any advice you guys have to offer. I think he will have the car painted, but if not it would be good info to have for later.

Thanks in advance
Kelly
 
Never ever use wax and grease remover on bare fiberglass or plastics.
Some may argue, but I won't do it.
For bare plastics, I wash with Dawn dish soap and that's all that's needed.
For older Corvettes that are actually fiberglass I will not get it wet
with anything, even water, until primered.
 
Kelly,
84 and newer vettes, no cleaner of any type should be used on raw the SMC, including water, as this is a big risk.

Other problem with vettes is a 6o year old rule of. Factory paint, repaint and then must be stripped.

You MUST make sure there is no second paint job on this, as it will bubble be it first day in sun or with in a few months, no if or buts.

Black will bubble inside of about 3-4 days of sun-lite from the calls I get.
 
Thanks for the information, that is what I needed to know. I could not remember the details, just knew I had heard of problems with them and wanted to make sure I had the facts straight before hand. I am pretty sure the car is mostly factory paint except the driver side quarter that has been repainted at some point. So am I on the right track by washing with dawn before doing anything, then stripping it to factory primer (or should I go to bare SMC?) with a DA then 2 coats epoxy, block with 400, seal with epoxy, then base and clear? I will of course be using all SPI except the base which will be PPG Deltron. Is that a good plan or do I need to make some changes? Thanks

Kelly
 
On that year you would be well served leaving factory primer on car. 88 and old start to get boarder line.
Rest of plan looks good!
 
Okay, thanks a lot to both of you for the information and help.


Kelly
 
Here's what we do....we buy the orange citrus based stripper (can't remember the name right now) in a spray can, not brush on...spray it on heavy (and cover with saran wrap if it is hot) and it does a decent job of getting the paint off and leaving the primer if you leave it on long enough.
the factory primer is your friend...we use plastic razor blades in a holder. You can also try using regular razor blades, sometimes you get lucky. As said above, use no cleaners solvent or waterbase. However, we sand after stripping with 120 da to get to a somewhat level surface and wash 2 times with scuff pad and dawn, then let it set for a week in clean environment (not outside) shoot 2 coats of epoxy in the morning and 3 coats of polyester in the evening before going home (I know everyone will bitch about this) then start your blocking and finish as usual. Never had a failure in probably 20 + C4's...Dave
 
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