Poly Primer

While I've never used super build I have sealed and painted over other polys and never had a problem, the collision shops using super build seal and paint over it daily.
 
Yes, I would be sealing with epoxy.

Here is what I did so far.

2 coats of epoxy

2 coats of super build

Filler

Block everything with 80 and 180

1 coat of epoxy (had lots of rub throughs

2 more coats of super build.

Guide coat

It looks like there should be enough build with the last round of super build to guide coat a couple times and step through the grits to be ready for paint without spraying any more coats.
 
I've used Z-chrome a few times, worked good except for once when the MEKP was bad. A rod shop north of me uses Sandy by Clausen. He does $100K builds for George Poteet, nice work.
 
Shot some Slick Sand today and put my reading glasses on to check out the date on the MEKP tube, but I can't remember if the date represents the MFD or the expiration date-anybody know. If it's the MFD then it was only a couple months old. Kicked over fine.
 
I found what worked really well for me with Slick Sand was to break the skin with 120 first, and after that it sanded like butter with 220. I daresay it almost sanded nicer than the SPI 2k.
 
Exactly what I do, 120 and re-guidecoat then step it down to whatever I want. Many times I've taken it from 120-320 and final primed with epoxy or sealed and painted
 
And if you want to wetsand it that's also OK if there's epoxy underneath.
 
I sanded some fenders yesterday that I slick sanded last weekend. Started with 150 and they leveled out great, then blocked with 320, then 600, only broke through on the edges where I like to anyways. Ready for paint.

150 actually cut better then I thought it would have.

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I sanded some fenders yesterday that I slick sanded last weekend. Started with 150 and they leveled out great, then blocked with 320, then 600, only broke through on the edges where I like to anyways. Ready for paint.

150 actually cut better then I thought it would have.
 
How often do you guys find yourselves using poly primer? What is the deciding factor for using poly?

Of course poly would be unnecessary mils if the panel is straight already. Do you use it only when a panel was barely salvageable, or more often than that?
 
Guess I need to step up and get with the program. I'm still stuck on using filler to get the panels straight as possible before going to SPI high build (which I reduce a little anyway, kind of like buying regular build in concentrate). Maybe the spray poly might reduce the tedious task of trying to get panels perfectly flat with filler.
 
i find poly to be the real key with that. what makes it difficult with filler is that every time you add some to the panel that filler is at a different cure stage than all the rest so you will have multiple filler applications on a panel all at different hardness levels. this makes them all block at different rates. the poly is good. it smoothes everything out and you can block the same material so it gets nice and flat. at that point it requires very little 2k. 2 med coats just to fill in the sanding scratches. block it and your ready to go.
 
Arrowhead;41982 said:
Guess I need to step up and get with the program. I'm still stuck on using filler to get the panels straight as possible before going to SPI high build (which I reduce a little anyway, kind of like buying regular build in concentrate). Maybe the spray poly might reduce the tedious task of trying to get panels perfectly flat with filler.
Click to expand...

After the 1st time you use slick sand or a poly like that you'll be kicking yourself for not trying it sooner.

Just make sure your gun has a minimal 2.2 tip.

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Arrowhead;41982 said:
Guess I need to step up and get with the program. I'm still stuck on using filler to get the panels straight as possible before going to SPI high build (which I reduce a little anyway, kind of like buying regular build in concentrate). Maybe the spray poly might reduce the tedious task of trying to get panels perfectly flat with filler.
Click to expand...

After the 1st time you use slick sand or a poly like that you'll be kicking yourself for not trying it sooner.

Just make sure your gun has a minimal 2.2 tip.
 
orangejuiced86;41989 said:
After the 1st time you use slick sand or a poly like that you'll be kicking yourself for not trying it sooner.

Just make sure your gun has a minimal 2.2 tip.
Click to expand...


That's what I was thinking after trying it the first time.
 
Bob Hollinshead;41967 said:
I've used Z-chrome a few times, worked good except for once when the MEKP was bad. A rod shop north of me uses Sandy by Clausen. He does $100K builds for George Poteet, nice work.
Click to expand...

Clausen also makes ALL-U-NEED poly primer, he said it's the same as Z-Chrome but available in different colors.. Myself I prefer the yellow primer because it's the only primer I use in that color so it makes it easy for me to follow what is going on.

I would love to build a car for Poteet,, Not sure how you fall into that situation.
 
Bob Hollinshead;41968 said:
Shot some Slick Sand today and put my reading glasses on to check out the date on the MEKP tube, but I can't remember if the date represents the MFD or the expiration date-anybody know. If it's the MFD then it was only a couple months old. Kicked over fine.
Click to expand...

I didn't know it was dated, I will have to check that out.. I buy direct so I would assume it would be somewhat accurate. I usually go through a case or two a month.
 
Arrowhead;41982 said:
Guess I need to step up and get with the program. I'm still stuck on using filler to get the panels straight as possible before going to SPI high build (which I reduce a little anyway, kind of like buying regular build in concentrate). Maybe the spray poly might reduce the tedious task of trying to get panels perfectly flat with filler.
Click to expand...

I am pretty much using it on any of my big resto projects now, I keep thinking about skipping when they are really straight but I always like the results after sanding it so I keep at it..
I however sand it way down to keep the Mils down..

Some people may think with as much as I sand off that it is a waste of time, but it works for me this way.


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Arrowhead;41982 said:
Guess I need to step up and get with the program. I'm still stuck on using filler to get the panels straight as possible before going to SPI high build (which I reduce a little anyway, kind of like buying regular build in concentrate). Maybe the spray poly might reduce the tedious task of trying to get panels perfectly flat with filler.
Click to expand...

I am pretty much using it on any of my big resto projects now, I keep thinking about skipping when they are really straight but I always like the results after sanding it so I keep at it..
I however sand it way down to keep the Mils down..

Some people may think with as much as I sand off that it is a waste of time, but it works for me this way.
 
Haha I'm with ya chad...still haven't figured out how those guys fall into your life! LOL

But Jim hit the nail on the head. You can only get it so straight in filler. Most of these restos that we do are so beat up most people would think they are not even repairable or atleast not worth it. I wouldn't say that using poly is a shortcut on your filler work, but just another tool in the box to make your work a lot easier. I find that by using poly I am not in a position to ask too much of my urethane primer. Urethane primer is pretty much used to spot prime the extra areas that may need attention after poly primer and to fill in the 180 scratches from blocking poly. Essentially building the foundation for paint. Poly primer is still part of the "bodywork" stage.

"Work smarter, not harder." Man..I find myself saying this pretty much daily.
 
Bob Hollinshead;41968 said:
Shot some Slick Sand today and put my reading glasses on to check out the date on the MEKP tube, but I can't remember if the date represents the MFD or the expiration date-anybody know. If it's the MFD then it was only a couple months old. Kicked over fine.
Click to expand...
Bob, I believe it is the MFD.
 
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