Poly Primer
- Thread starter strum456
- Start date
strum456;41643 said:
I'm not Jim but maybe I can help......
The little plastic tubs of activator comes with "graduated" marks themselves, it's only 4 marks that would allow you to mix as little as half pint at a time.
http://www.eastwood.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/412x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p27287.jpg
Jorge M.
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strum456;41643 said:
I'm not Jim but maybe I can help......
The little plastic tubs of activator comes with "graduated" marks themselves, it's only 4 marks that would allow you to mix as little as half pint at a time.
http://www.eastwood.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/412x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p27287.jpg
Jorge M.
J
jeremyb
I've been using the Superbuild 4:1 for quite some time now...atleast 2-3 years. Previously used the featherfill g2 and even slicksand.
I prefer the Superbuild. It sprays slicker while still giving you more build than the g2 or slicksand..which in turn makes the sanding a little easier. I really don't find it any harder to sand than slicksand. The g2 may sand just a little better but the trade off is worth it. I cut all my poly with 120 anyway first then go back over with 180.
It is a little over $100 bucks and makes 5 sprayable quarts.
I prefer the Superbuild. It sprays slicker while still giving you more build than the g2 or slicksand..which in turn makes the sanding a little easier. I really don't find it any harder to sand than slicksand. The g2 may sand just a little better but the trade off is worth it. I cut all my poly with 120 anyway first then go back over with 180.
It is a little over $100 bucks and makes 5 sprayable quarts.
B
Bob Hollinshead
I've been using Slick sand for awhile now, used G2 for awhile before that. I think SS builds and sands a little better. My Son uses the 4:1 super build and loves the stuff-I haven't tried it yet. PPG is now pushing their 4:1 and many say it's just relabeled Super Build
B
bomccorkle
I use epoxy under slick sand. I usually give the epoxy 48-72 hours to cure since the poly primers are so acetone heavy.
rusty428cj
Rusty Gillis
All I have used is Slick Sand reduced with SPI reducer.
I ordered a gallon of Superbuild. My local Jobber was gouging me, so I placed a phone order to Double G's Advantage PBE in Missouri. It was just over $100 with shipping. I'll let you all know how it goes.
Should I plan on thinning the Superbuild to spray out of a 2.2? If so, how much? I can thin with acetone or SPI reducer, correct?
My plan is to spray 2 coats of epoxy, wait two days, then spray Superbuild. I was going to do my bodywork on top of the Superbuild (need to skim coat some areas).
Do I have to scuff the Superbuild before filler if I get the filler on it within a day or so?
I was going to order some 120 to sand the Superbuild before 180. The jobber didn't have 120 and told me that everyone uses 80 then 180. I thought 80 seemed a little harsh, but I am not familiar with the product.
Should I plan on thinning the Superbuild to spray out of a 2.2? If so, how much? I can thin with acetone or SPI reducer, correct?
My plan is to spray 2 coats of epoxy, wait two days, then spray Superbuild. I was going to do my bodywork on top of the Superbuild (need to skim coat some areas).
Do I have to scuff the Superbuild before filler if I get the filler on it within a day or so?
I was going to order some 120 to sand the Superbuild before 180. The jobber didn't have 120 and told me that everyone uses 80 then 180. I thought 80 seemed a little harsh, but I am not familiar with the product.
B
bomccorkle
I start with 80 on slick sand. Never used super build before tho.
J
jeremyb
I spray it out of Sata 100 poly gun. Tip is 2.5 I believe. I have sprayed it out of a 1.8..a little slow. a 2.2 would really be perfect. I have to dial it back some with the 2.5. You will not need any reducer for this. It honestly sprays slick and smooth but has more build per coat than the g2 or slicksand. I usually only do 2 coats. Block, then move on the urethane primer.
You will need to sand the Superbuild for filler to stick at any time. There is no open coat time like epoxy. If there are small metal break through areas I will not seal with epoxy, but large panels I will seal with epoxy first. I think 80 would be fine but its just a high jump to 180 to make sure all your scratches are out before you move on to urethane primer.
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I spray it out of Sata 100 poly gun. Tip is 2.5 I believe. I have sprayed it out of a 1.8..a little slow. a 2.2 would really be perfect. I have to dial it back some with the 2.5. You will not need any reducer for this. It honestly sprays slick and smooth but has more build per coat than the g2 or slicksand. I usually only do 2 coats. Block, then move on the urethane primer.
You will need to sand the Superbuild for filler to stick at any time. There is no open coat time like epoxy. If there are small metal break through areas I will not seal with epoxy, but large panels I will seal with epoxy first. I think 80 would be fine but its just a high jump to 180 to make sure all your scratches are out before you move on to urethane primer.
You will need to sand the Superbuild for filler to stick at any time. There is no open coat time like epoxy. If there are small metal break through areas I will not seal with epoxy, but large panels I will seal with epoxy first. I think 80 would be fine but its just a high jump to 180 to make sure all your scratches are out before you move on to urethane primer.
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I spray it out of Sata 100 poly gun. Tip is 2.5 I believe. I have sprayed it out of a 1.8..a little slow. a 2.2 would really be perfect. I have to dial it back some with the 2.5. You will not need any reducer for this. It honestly sprays slick and smooth but has more build per coat than the g2 or slicksand. I usually only do 2 coats. Block, then move on the urethane primer.
You will need to sand the Superbuild for filler to stick at any time. There is no open coat time like epoxy. If there are small metal break through areas I will not seal with epoxy, but large panels I will seal with epoxy first. I think 80 would be fine but its just a high jump to 180 to make sure all your scratches are out before you move on to urethane primer.
B
bomccorkle
I treat it like filler, I lay 2-3 coats then try and get most of it off with 80, then 2k and block at 120, then 2k and block at 220 then interface.
I've never tried to sand the slick sand finer than 80, mostly because its harder and not terrible to sand but its also not 2k. Also it seems when shaping a panel it seems to coke out flatter in the coarser grits, but that could be me, I get impatient at the filler/shaping step.
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I treat it like filler, I lay 2-3 coats then try and get most of it off with 80, then 2k and block at 120, then 2k and block at 220 then interface.
I've never tried to sand the slick sand finer than 80, mostly because its harder and not terrible to sand but its also not 2k. Also it seems when shaping a panel it seems to coke out flatter in the coarser grits, but that could be me, I get impatient at the filler/shaping step.
I've never tried to sand the slick sand finer than 80, mostly because its harder and not terrible to sand but its also not 2k. Also it seems when shaping a panel it seems to coke out flatter in the coarser grits, but that could be me, I get impatient at the filler/shaping step.
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I treat it like filler, I lay 2-3 coats then try and get most of it off with 80, then 2k and block at 120, then 2k and block at 220 then interface.
I've never tried to sand the slick sand finer than 80, mostly because its harder and not terrible to sand but its also not 2k. Also it seems when shaping a panel it seems to coke out flatter in the coarser grits, but that could be me, I get impatient at the filler/shaping step.
Jim C
Oldtimer
yeah the super build i think is the one that i tried a couple gallons of. it does spray wetter and slicker. it was very deceiving actually. it seems like its going on piss thin compared to other primers but the build is really high. i just swore i would never use it again because of the sanding. it was just so god awful hard to sand i might as well just used straight gelcoat. stuff was like a rock. this was when it was very first released. maybe they have changed it since then. who knows.
J
jeremyb
They have, Jim. I had the Evercoat rep in here about a year or so ago and told him the same thing. First few gallons were hard as a rock. Had to start with 80 grit pretty much. He told me they had changed the formula since to fix that.
It sands pretty good now.
It sands pretty good now.
Now that I have had an opportunity to spray and sand some Super Build, I should thank Jeremy for directing me to such a quality product. I can't really compare to other poly primers, but I will say that it has exceeded my expectations in all areas. It sands great and it sure does build! I will definitely be using more Super Build.
Is there anything wrong with spraying sealer right on the Super Build rather than a round of 2k or epoxy first?
Is there anything wrong with spraying sealer right on the Super Build rather than a round of 2k or epoxy first?