I'mgoing to have to make do with 1 and 2 ladders, wish me luck.When I painted a camper I set up two scaffolds on the end and stepped onto the second one as I moved across. Painting the sides I had two scaffolds set up on the sides and sprayed sections as far as my horizontal reach would allow, while keeping a wet edge. The camper owner on the ground would leap frog the scaffolds while I was spraying so I could keep moving along the side.
This is exactly why Iam trying to get a feel for how long I need to be able to get back to a wet edge before it'sno longer wet. I too planned to doa dry run but knowing how long I have before I need to get back to the wet edge would help me in my dry run.Your wet edge is going to become more critical with your base and clear because your base flashes very quickly and dry spray on your clear will be noticeable (but repairable).
When I sprayed a camper I planned my moves out ahead of time, and then I actually rehearsed them with my empty gun and hose in hand, to make sure I was going to be able to make the reaches and stretches, and climbs up and down, and the guy on the ground leap frogged the scaffolding. Sometimes the rehearsal revealed the something wasn’t going to work so we had to change it.
Anyways, once you do a dry run rehearsal, stick to that plan and you’re ready to go live. Just don’t get in a rush and get flustered. The epoxy is repairable. The clear is repairable. The base is most difficult to repair and there’s a good probability you are going to get tiger striping or mottling of your clear. Read up well on techniques to spray these to avoid that. I’d recommend a drop coat on WET base to prevent those two issues.
I would if I could and I wished I could. I have a very small window to do the actual painting. Remember I am in a private park now. I did get a large sign that I will shoot on just before priming.I think you should get an old hood or some kind of fairly large panel from a junk yard first to do some practice spraying on it. Really. Lean it up against a tree or something so you have a vertical surface. This will tell you a lot about how long you have and what your pattern looks like.
You could just end up with some major catastrophes if you make your first time be on the actual panel. I did a practice panel and I still had a bad experience on the first car I ever did solo 8 years ago.
Yes, I was thinking along the same lines with the retarder.You should get some urethane retarder. You’re gonna need it along with very slow reducer…
Well I finally figured out how many sq ft of surface I am painting and wanted tobe sure what was said earlier still applies. Sorry for the repetitiveness but I am new at this and would be unhappy not having enough product on hand after ordering it.Some of these questions you’re asking people have already answered so I don’t understand what you’re trying to get by repeating them.
Thanks! I had no idea how much to mix up but with its long pot life (primer) I needed a starting point.A quart of slow reducer will be enough for sealer.
1 gallon kit of epoxy and clear are more than enough.
For the surface area that you are spraying at a time (50 sq foot), mix up 26 oz of product and spray your first coat. You won’t use all of it. See how much of it you used to determine how much you need to continually mix up. Whatever is leftover can be used for the second coat + whatever additional volume you need to mix, if required.
I won'tbe entirely outside as I plan to enclose the endcap in a PVC/plastic coverto keep debris and bugs out.For your epoxy primer sealer—since it is outside the 2-48 hr guideline needs to be modified for you because it will be curing faster from the UV. Also because your basecoat is outside, your clear needs to go on the same day for the same reason. Therefore I would spray sealer on Day 1 later in the afternoon if you have plenty of heat in your days.
I have eliminated one color and will use three instead of four. Nason tech line said I had to wait 1 hour before masking on new paint.On the morning of day 2 once all the dew is evaporated, spray your basecoat. This is going to take a while with all the different taping and masking you need to do, which is why Chris indicated you have a very difficult project.
This could be a very valuable tip - thanks!Then you need to get clear on everything within the same day otherwise you will risk adhesion issues to your basecoat. The fact that you are using a cheap basecoat is not doing you any favors. You will want to add a capful of clearcoat activator to your basecoat which will make it more robust, enhance adhesion with the clearcoat and will not give you lifting problems were you to sand through the clear.
Yes the 10day forcast still has us in the low nineties soI thought I'd need retarder.it’s recommend to use the slowest activator you can and I would normally use very slow in your case, but since you are outside you might end up with a little more trash in very slow vs slow.
Will it be over 80 degrees when you’re spraying? If so, retarder is immensely helpful. Add from 1-3 oz per quart. I usually start between 1-2 oz and see how it’s going and will aSS more if needed. Even if not that warm it might help just to keep your wet edge wet longer.
Again thanks for your insight and wisdom.For a camper I’d be inclined to use a lower solids production clear just based on cost (assuming it’s cheaper than Universal clear).
I'm still mulling that over. These pictures show a before and after idea that I am now considering with 3 colors. Where I eliminate the graphics and some stripes. Still a mental work in progress until I order the paint.Too keep it simple could you not just use 2 colours? Tan colour around the tail lights and black the rest?
Thanks, most likely the one I will do.I think the simpler iteration is just fine, personally.