Newbie with questions

Chris_Hamilton said:
As Rock said above #8 you are spraying unreduced epoxy. Reduced epoxy is when you seal it. Refer to (my) post 102 for what I consider the simplest way to get it ready for paint.
First thing you have to do is get all the peeling clearcoat off. Sand with 180 using a DA is the most efficient way. I guess you could hand sand but it will take forever. Once you have the existing finish free of all peeling clear (and it needs to be all gone not just most of it or you will have a failure in that spot) then blow off, mask, wipe down, then shoot 2-4 coats of epoxy. Personally I would do 3 or 4. Two is the absolute minimum and I think you will need more than that to avoid any sand throughs and to only have to prime once.

Once applied the epoxy must remain at 65-70 degrees for at least 24 hours. After 24 hours you can sand it. Use the DA and the interface pad and 320 grit or finer. With epoxy I don't see the need for guidecoat as it has a built in guidecoat of sorts. If it makes you more comfortable then use it.

After you sand it all blow off again, wash it with Dawn (optional but a good idea) dry, do your initial masking, then wipe down with W&G remover
and seal it with epoxy reduced 25%. Give it a min of 2 hours before you proceed to base. Once you are ready to base this is where it will get tricky doing four different colors. Spray your first color and then give it time to dry before attempting to mask for your second color and so on. You need to give it absolute min of 1 hour after applying your color before masking off for the next. Get the mask on and off as quickly as possible as tape will mar base if left on too long. And too long is really a very short time. Never mask fresh base and leave it on for more than a few hours..

Plan on the four colors taking a complete day or longer to do when you factor the masking and the wait time between each color. Don't get in a rush, give it time to dry before masking off for the next color. Wear nitrile/latex gloves while doing this to help keep your bare hands off the work. Get the masking on and off as quickly as you can. Literally.
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I didn't mean to have the initial epoxy reduced, thanks forcatching that. I will do three coats as advised. I have already sanded all clear off. Thanks for all the details and I have decided to omit one color.

When doing the colors I plan to do black first since it is on the endcap top and my plan was to overlap the areas where other colors will go. Let it dry then mask and paint next highest color - maroon and finally mask and paint lowest color - gold. Don't I need toapply CC same day?
 
I won't hurt anything to use guide coat after your first sanding with 320. Then, guidecoat and sand with 600.
 
jzhinton said:
I didn't mean to have the initial epoxy reduced, thanks forcatching that. I will do three coats as advised. I have already sanded all clear off. Thanks for all the details and I have decided to omit one color.

When doing the colors I plan to do black first since it is on the endcap top and my plan was to overlap the areas where other colors will go. Let it dry then mask and paint next highest color - maroon and finally mask and paint lowest color - gold. Don't I need toapply CC same day?
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Since you will be outside in the UV you will need to apply clear in the same day…unless you can spray an intercoat after each base color. I’d defer to one of the pro’s on that one.
 
From one newbie to another. Get yourself a practice fender or hood something with paint. Sand it like you sanded the motor home. Practice on that.

Also get a spray suit Spraying clear it will be all over you and anything down wind.
 
jzhinton said:
Don't I need toapply CC same day?
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No. You can apply it days later and be OK. Nice stuff we want to give the base 12 hours or more before clear. Standard practice with collision is same day, but your situation is a lot different. In your situation though being you are doing it outside(?) get it on as soon as possible. In all likelihood that will be the next day. Consider 2-4 hours the absolute min before applying clear to avoid issues.

If it's outdoors, wipe the whole thing down with solvent based W&G remover before proceeding with clear. Never use a water/alcohol based W&G remover on fresh base. If there is tree sap or other stuff the solvent W&G remover won't remove, then use a soapy solution of Dawn (only Dawn others have additives that are incompatible with refinish work) and wipe off the problem areas, then wipe with water.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
No. You can apply it days later and be OK. Nice stuff we want to give the base 12 hours or more before clear. Standard practice with collision is same day, but your situation is a lot different. In your situation though being you are doing it outside(?) get it on as soon as possible. In all likelihood that will be the next day. Consider 2-4 hours the absolute min before applying clear to avoid issues.

If it's outdoors, wipe the whole thing down with solvent based W&G remover before proceeding with clear. Never use a water/alcohol based W&G remover on fresh base. If there is tree sap or other stuff the solvent W&G remover won't remove, then use a soapy solution of Dawn (only Dawn others have additives that are incompatible with refinish work) and wipe off the problem areas, then wipe with water.
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Nice to know I can apply the next day. I will build a PVC and plastic sheeting enclosure for the endcap. Gothca on the solvent based notwater based W&G.
 
Tungsten said:
From one newbie to another. Get yourself a practice fender or hood something with paint. Sand it like you sanded the motor home. Practice on that.

Also get a spray suit Spraying clear it will be all over you and anything down wind.
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I found an old metal sign today. I have a painting suit.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
No. You can apply it days later and be OK. Nice stuff we want to give the base 12 hours or more before clear.
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This rule only applies if it’s sitting inside out of UV. And that rule would only apply to a good base with good polyol which not be Nason.
 
Based on a lot of the comments about deep sand scratches I am sanding to 320 before epoxy. Here is my current plan... shoot holes in it.

PRIME-SPI 6620-1 Black
4. wash it down with dawn
5. blow off w/ air, degrease and mask out area to be painted with plastic/paper
a. Wipe panel with W&G 700 and Tack Cloth
6. mix SPI primer & Activator
a. use a paint filter to filter out contaminants from being poured into the paint gun.
b. induce at least 30 minutes
c. Respirator (charcoal), eye protection, paint suit, gloves
7. prime the surface - epoxy, 3 coats
a. Primer will fill in 180 to 320-grit sand scratches.
b. set spectrum gun full fan full fluid, then adjust it until I find the right settings for me on test panel
c. spray gun 1.3 tip, 28 psi 4-5 inches away slowly lay on heavy, 2-3 wet coats w/45 min flash time between coats
d. Wait 24 hours before sanding
e. clean gun Aerosol Injected Cleaner/lacquer thinner
8. Sand primer
b. Sand with 320 to 500 grit w/interface pad to smooth paint runs or drips smooth to the
surface, being careful not to sand too far and exposing the surface again.
d. Wash area to be primed with Dawn and dry
e. Use compressed air to blow water out of crevices.
f. do initial masking,
g. wipe down with W&G remover and Tack Cloth
9. Seal with epoxy reduced 25%.
a.wait 2 hours before basecoat
 
Also spray pattern should be added,how do you plan on spraying . Scaffolding ladder? Thats what 8' wide,can you go back and forth the full 8'?
I have no idea but youll want a plan.
 
Drop your air pressure to spray epoxy to minimize craters, spray at about 20-25 PSI. I think the craters are more a function of air drying out the alcohol moreso than the amount of material being put on. I will get craters sometimes when I double back over something and thought it was just because of excess material, but I think it is actually from the air and not the added material.

The next time you're setting your gun, spray your pattern on some paper. Then just blow air with the first stop on the trigger right on the pattern you sprayed. It will instantly crater. No additional material was sprayed on, it was just the air.
 
Tungsten said:
Also spray pattern should be added,how do you plan on spraying . Scaffolding ladder? Thats what 8' wide,can you go back and forth the full 8'?
I have no idea but youll want a plan.
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I have one section of scaffold (66.5" wide) but may be able to reach all the way across -102" wide. Still trying to figure out how best to do that. But thinking use a ladder to paint right side edge, ladder the left side edge and the I should be able to conect the edges.
 
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