Napa Crossfire vs PPG Omni

S

sam64

Has anyone ever used Napa Crossfire which is Martin Senour or PPG Omni and if so how do they compare. If these were the only choices you had which one would you guys go with?
 
Try Chad S here on the forum. He's a ProSpray dealer and will take care of you if he can...
Good guy to deal with and good prices!
I'm not familiar with either of those brand, but have used the ProSpray and been happy with the results
 
I've used crossfire for over 8 years. Its good for overall and collision work,some colors match OK but for an exact match I would use tech base. I have only used martin senour or Sherwin Williams. I have no idea about omni. Every brand has goods and bads its not the Cadillac but it ain't no Herby. The have pro base that's newer but the match on some colors are way off .
 
If I had to pick one The Martin senior is better omni is total crap. I use TCP globals restoration shop on cheaper jobs and love it, its basically valspar.But check price with Chad before you make your mind up you might be suprised
 
If you use crossfire use spi reducer its a night and day difference in how it lays and dries. I was using a cheap reducer that I could get for 80$ for 5 gallons and having all kind of solvent pop wrinkling on blends and just an all out fight and all that quit when I started using spi reducer.
 
i use none of theses so i shouldn't have posted anything. if 100 bucks on paint is a budget buster your in the wrong hobby .
 
Prospray is premium basecoat for a reasonable price. I can't imagine you'd be saving more than a few dollars by going with some econo base like Omni. In the end, you would pay more because more productwould be needed to obtain full coverage. Use SPI reducer.

I hear that Wanda is good too. I'd try it but I am perfectly happy with getting Prospray from Chad.
 
Shine sometimes I don't agree with somethings you say but sometime I don't even agree with myself, I think you are a vey knowledgeable person that takes a lot of pride in his work and probably forgotten more than I know. But sometimes time, price, material just plain it didn't work that way comes into play. I would have to drive and hour to get another brand vs 10 min and learned to use what was available. Every brand has its good a bad points but I was taught to make the best of whats available do your best and that if you were ever completely satisfied with your work then you might need to find another job.
 
shine;n73230 said:
i use none of theses so i shouldn't have posted anything. if 100 bucks on paint is a budget buster your in the wrong hobby .


I forgot to mention this is a complete restoration and I'm not a professional just a guy trying to restore a car. $100 bucks is not a budget buster just trying to figure out which is the best paint I can use that I can get locally. As far as I know I can get Omni, Crossfire and Wanda. Omni and Crossfire are the only ones that can find the code for the original paint that was on the car which I'm trying to stay with the original color. Wanda jobber can not find the code and can only try to match if I take them a part with the original color. If you don't use any of these what would you or anyone else recommend? Do you use Pro Spray?
 
sam64, are you certain those are the only brands of paint you can obtain? Often jobbers will peg walk-in customers as "cheapskates" who would never pay $800 for a gallon of base coat. At least for your own peace of mind, visit these jobbers again and ask them what they would use if "cost was no object." It may be that there are other brands available that have been selectively withheld from your knowledge.
 
crashtech;n73236 said:
sam64, are you certain those are the only brands of paint you can obtain? Often jobbers will peg walk-in customers as "cheapskates" who would never pay $800 for a gallon of base coat. At least for your own peace of mind, visit these jobbers again and ask them what they would use if "cost was no object." It may be that there are other brands available that have been selectively withheld from your knowledge.

How true this is!!!!
I warn people all the time that the poor counter guy is so sick of people bitching about an $600-1200 gallon of red that he will give you the lowest price he has in stock.
 
an old friend still works at the same supplier that i bought from for years. you go in there and start bitching about the cost of top shelf paint he will damn sure hand you a gal of that cheap junk . he will also sell you another 2 qrts to finish or repair all the solvent pop . and dont go whining to him because he sold you what you asked for . saving 100-200 dollars on a 10k job drives me nuts .
 
Going back to the local jobbers today to see other brands of paint they may have, I did purchase a 1/4 pint of cross fire and the closest color match of wanda and when I opened the cans to compare the two mixed with a stir stick you could tell the wanda was thicker than the crossfire which was like water. Now I'm not an expert and don't know if this even matters and have not sprayed any test panels with either paint but I think if it were thicker that should be better. I liked the crossfire only because it was matched with the code of the original paint and the wanda was not cause the jobber cannot find the code so it was matched with a part with original paint on it which was off. But the wanda seemed to be better quality.
 
Crossfire is not meant for a direct match it's for overalls. Sometimes you can blend it but if you are looking for a match you need to go with the higher end from whatever brand you choose. I'm not paying $800 for paint for a overall when I can get it $200, that's what crossfires for.
 
Sorry I'm not looking for a match the car will be an overall paint job it's a complete restoration, I am trying to stay as close as possible to the original color. Napa did mix crossfire from the code I got from the car and it looks spot on to the original but the paint seems a little thin.
 
curt b;n73246 said:
Crossfire is not meant for a direct match it's for overalls. Sometimes you can blend it but if you are looking for a match you need to go with the higher end from whatever brand you choose. I'm not paying $800 for paint for a overall when I can get it $200, that's what crossfires for.

Sorry I'm not looking for a match the car will be an overall paint job it's a complete restoration, I am trying to stay as close as possible to the original color. Napa did mix crossfire from the code I got from the car and it looks spot on to the original but the paint seems a little thin.
 
What are you restoring? or did I miss that part? What color are you doing or would like to do? or did I miss that also? I'm just kinda confused by what you are trying to accomplish and what your expectations are when you do get it done?
As for one being thinner then the other, to me dosen't mean much. I have done a 79' Chevy dump truck paint job that was a budget job. I used Nason Acrylic Enamel and it is thin (no reducer required), thinner then Centari but the coverage was good, the hold out was good and the shine was good (I seen it a year later).
 
Its definitely thinner compared to the higher line.It is the lowest line from them.They do have a newer line called pro base that's a middle grade, its thicker and covers a little better than crossfire and can be matched but neither is as good a tech base. As long as you use spi reducer and hardener in them they all work better.
 
Back
Top