How about some clear epoxy?

B

Brad J.

Oldtimer
A local fabricator was making a metal dinning room table for a customer and wanted me to satin clear it for him. I wouldn't do it but I did use Shark Hyde on it. It would be nice to have a gal of clear epoxy around as I run into request like this all the time. Not to mention alum parts. Happy with shark hyde as it's pretty much undetectable and doesn't chip or peel. Seems to soak right into the pores and fights corrosion. It just didn't have the adjustable gloss that clears have. Might be stupid but I'd use it.
 
I think it would be too yellow, and not UV resistant enough, amongst other things. But Barry can probably explain why.
 
I think if you just look at the color of the activator for the epoxy you will understand we would be going back-wards from the get-go.
 
brad, on grainy wood like oak i will use epoxy table or casting resin since its crystal clear, get it all smoothed out then topcoat it with clear for the uv protection and look i want.
 
I thought about the color of the activator being dark but that wouldn't matter on a lot of the steel stuff I do. I suppose it would tint the aluminum. Jim, this was a metal frame that I treated and it has a wooden top. They wanted the table raw steel with a nice maple top. I thought about using my epoxy resin on some wooden spoke wheels I did this summer. This thought came to me after 15+ coats of MS clear. I think the resin will get the ball rolling and grain filled and clear would give the look.
 
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