Gun Recommendations for SPI Universal Clear

T

texastomeh

I know that threads re spay gun recommendation have been done to death and after reading dozens of them, I am more undecided than ever.:confused:

(1) I am a DIY hobbiest - NOT a pro;
(2) Will be shooting three cars at most, spread over a couple of years;
(3) Soliciting recommendations re the best gun (and tip size) FOR the PRICE to shoot SPI UNIVERSAL CLEAR COAT ONLY;
(4) I stress again that THIS GUN AND TIP will be used ONLY be shooting SPI UNIVSRSAL CLEAR COAT;
(5) I am more than willing to pay the price for a GOOD gun, but do not want to "overkill".
(6) I know that the final results are mostly dependent on the guy using the gun, but I also know and believe you guys when you say that using a good paint in a good gun gives better results;
(5) I would also be greatly appreciative of any and all advice/recommendations re air pressure, reduction, flash time, compatibility, etc. based on your actual experience, that you would be willing to add in addition to the EXCELLENT instructions and information that Barry K. already provides in the Tech Sheets and on the outstanding SPI website.

I would appreciate any and all help.:cool:

Tom
 
Buy a Sata or Iwata if you have lots of air, buy an Iwata if you have a bit less air.
Either gun will hold a good portion of its purchase price and you will be able to recover a good portion of your investment in 3 years.
Buy a lower priced, lower quality gun and give it away in 3 years.
Either way you will have spent about the same $$ in the end.
 
I am a clueless hoser when it comes to painting and I have a small collection of Harbor Freight, Craftsman and DeVilbiss guns. None of them cost more than $150 and I had decent results painting a couple of cars. I sold an antique manifold and carb setup for $600 and used the money to buy an Iwata LPH400 (silver cap) gun and Iwata Eclipse HP CS airbrush. These did not make me a great painter but using them has made the learning process faster and easier. As SOF points out, you can recover a big part of the cost when you are finished with the Iwata gun. I paid $387 for a new LPH400LV in 2009 and I see them for around $450 at online sources today. I also see someone is asking $360 for an "unused" one on eBay.
 
Although I'm a buy a great gun advocate for someone that is going to paint a lot as a hobbyist or professional, a do it your selfer, I have helped many adjust their $20-100 gun for the clear or base and have gotten good results. It is all about budget and how many projects a guy plans on doing.
 
I have "heard" great things about the DeVilbiss Tekna Copper with the 7E7 compliant tip but haven't used one. Their Plus gun also gets rave reviews and both guns have been compared to the Sata RP in quality and results.
You can find the 3000 RP on eBay pretty regular in the $300 - $400 range.
 
I have used the DeVilbiss Tekna Copper with 7E7 tip and really like it. It sprays at 23 psi and atomizes great. Didn't cost an arm and a leg (just a leg). I would highly recommend it. I am also a huge fan of the DeVilbiss SRI Pro detail gun. It is my favorite. I use the Tekna Copper for BC and CC and have had wonderful results painting metallics on my wife's mercedes and my friends mustang. I'll be doing a full color change on my Triumph over the next couple weeks. I purchase these on line from Autobodystore.com. Very economical and great equiment. I use it with the DeKups system. I am not a Pro. Just a satisfied hobbyist.

[QUOTE='68 Coronet R/T;24328]I have "heard" great things about the DeVilbiss Tekna Copper with the 7E7 compliant tip but haven't used one. Their Plus gun also gets rave reviews and both guns have been compared to the Sata RP in quality and results.
You can find the 3000 RP on eBay pretty regular in the $300 - $400 range.[/QUOTE]
 
Which size tip and initial starting point settings do you recommend for an IWATA LPH400-LV (Silver Air Cap) gun when shooting the Universal Clear?

Thanx,

Tom
 
1.4 Tip, Basic starting points, turn fluid flow all the way in and back out 2 1/2 turns, air flow bring all the way out and turn in 1/8 to1/4 turn so the middle does not blow out when trigger is pulled. Adjust from there with air pressure and your painting style
 
Thanx Dutchman!

Thanks for all the comments, recommendations and advice!

I've decided on the IWATA LPH400-LV gun with the Silver Air Cap. It is overkill and I will probably never do it justice, but figure "what-the-H*LL" - at my age I feel that I deserve it, so I'm gonna' "treat" myself!

At least I will not be wondering if I could have done better with a "good" gun!!

The way that I'm looking at it is that our Daughter, Son-in-Law and Grandkids bought this for "Grampy"! (LOL) Well, to be completely honest - it's a "preemptive strike" on my part by spending some of their inheritance!:playful:

While I love them dearly, I want them to be a little sad at my passing; not too busy enjoying counting the zeroes on the estate settlement checks!! (LOL)

Thanx again,

Tom





Thanx again,
 
Dutchman;24480 said:
1.4 Tip, Basic starting points, turn fluid flow all the way in and back out 2 1/2 turns, air flow bring all the way out and turn in 1/8 to1/4 turn so the middle does not blow out when trigger is pulled. Adjust from there with air pressure and your painting style
Click to expand...

^^^what he said^^^ I use a 1.3 fluid tip but I paint slow and it delivers enough material for any viscosity I shoot. 2 1/2 turns out is a great starting point-back it out more and jack up the pressure if you can move fast enough, 18-25psi with the trigger pulled depending on how thick your clear is. You'll find it's all about the fluid to air ratio and dependent on the viscosity of the material. Also, with this gun your distance from gun to panel is less than most other guns-keep it 4-5 inches but the fan is wide so coverage is good. I've dialed this gun down to less than 10 psi and choked the fluid ratio down to match when painting jambs and it still performs good there with less waste and more control. Play with it!
 
texastomeh;24484 said:
I've decided on the IWATA LPH400-LV gun with the Silver Air Cap. It is overkill and I will probably never do it justice, but figure "what-the-H*LL" - at my age I feel that I deserve it, so I'm gonna' "treat" myself!

At least I will not be wondering if I could have done better with a "good" gun!!
Click to expand...

Texastomeh, I have the Devilbiss 670 Plus, and the Iwata LPH400. Although I do like the Devilbiss, I absolutely love the Iwata. I use it with the 1.4 fluid nozzle and the orange cap for basecoats; and with the silver cap for single stage and SPI universal clear. It requires much lower PSI than the Devilbiss to operate - and produces much less over spray.

Use the settings provided by the others in this forum post. Be sure to spray deliberately and steady, and you should be able to lay down the paint like glass!
 
I just bought an IWATA LPH400-LV Spraygun (IWA5643) with Silver Ring Aircap, 1.3 mm tip and 1000ml Aluminum Cup - all in the original factory sealed packaging including lube, wrench, cleaning brush and warranty card for $415.00 (including shipping).

It arrived today and I think I got a pretty good deal. Did I ????

BTW: I have also ordered a 1.4mm Tip and a digital diaphram regulator for it separately.

Thanx,

Tom
 
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