Gouges on Bare Metal

C

cackle

Hello all,

I have a 1962 Jaguar Mark X and will be stripping down to metal because we dont know what the base primer is but we suspected it is laquer because it disolves with thinner. Here is a pic of the fender...the red spots are not dents, they are spots that I havent got to yet with the sander...When I removed the first layer of paint, I found a layer of bondo, under that is primer..the problem is on the metal, there are gouge marks on the metal. What Im thinking is that the painter applied the bondo to cover his or somones elses bad way of stripping the paint. The whole car has a layer of bondo.
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I have ordered SPI Epoxy and regular primer.

How do I cover these gouges? Will the layer of epoxy then primer be suffecient to cover? The whole car has these marks. Thanks.
 
Those are marks from a grinder or rotary tool with coarse grit paper. Very typical on cars that have been stripped before. You need to be using 80 on the metal. Just sand it as smooth as you can and 2 coats of epoxy will take care of the rest. Don't worry about getting the scratches completely out, just as much as practical. Don't be afraid to go through sandpaper, adhesion will be compromised by sanding metal with dull sandpaper.
 
Like someone much smarter than me said on this very forum:

If you feel like your wasting sandpaper, you're probably doing it right.
 
Thanks, I will DA with 80 grit. So all the layers of epoxy and primer will cover the marks or will the block sanding smooth things out? I have never gone all the way to bare metal before and I have never used epoxy before.
 
5wndwcpe;26362 said:
Like someone much smarter than me said on this very forum:

If you feel like your wasting sandpaper, you're probably doing it right.
Click to expand...

I better buy a couple of boxes then!
 
Just get 2 good coats of epoxy on it and we'll go from there. After priming and sanding a few times, those scratches will be but a memory.
 
I've seen these deep gouges before too. It must have been a common technique back in the 70's of doing body work to rough them up like that.
 
if you see 36 disk in a shop run away . you can razor blade that off easier than sanding.
 
on here you never know :D sometimes it's risky to answer . i learned in the 70's to avoid shops that had 24/36 grit in them. bodymen had a big part in my opening my first shop. just got tired of working after hacks.
 
Why would a person cover a whole car with a coat of bondo?
Be a hell of a lot easier to just sand and prime.
This is the second car I have read about recently that had the overall bondo treatment.
 
You may find that poly primer is the way to go on this. There has to be some reason that the last shop skimmed the whole thing other than those scratches.
 
back in the lacquer days you could only build so much with primer. so many shops did the skim job to get them straight. many still do. until featherfil there wasn't much else out there.
 
Exactly, lacquer primer sucked along with lacquer spot and glazing putties and any time you got carried away with any of them they would haunt you down the road. Bodyfiller didn't have that problem so if your metal work wasn't great and you didn't want your work to shrink back later you did your needed to do your filler work to the best of your ability and finish it off with a finer grit to avoid shrinkage. Also, some of the bodyfillers really didn't adhere all that well so most bodymen were taught to put some good grinder marks in the steel for the filler to grip. I remember blocksanding filler wet in an effort to reduce the amount of lacquer primer needed. Thank God for the products available today!
 
Bob Hollinshead;26395 said:
Exactly, lacquer primer sucked along with lacquer spot and glazing putties and any time you got carried away with any of them they would haunt you down the road. Bodyfiller didn't have that problem so if your metal work wasn't great and you didn't want your work to shrink back later you did your needed to do your filler work to the best of your ability and finish it off with a finer grit to avoid shrinkage. Also, some of the bodyfillers really didn't adhere all that well so most bodymen were taught to put some good grinder marks in the steel for the filler to grip. I remember blocksanding filler wet in an effort to reduce the amount of lacquer primer needed. Thank God for the products available today!
Click to expand...

Thats exactly what I thought...This car has the primer, bondo, paint ,primer (from a second paint job) then paint. Im thinking the original bondo is from the 1970 or early 80s. Spider cracks and bubbles were abundant on the surface. Its a lot of work but as all the experts on this forum have mentioned...going to metal is the only method.
 
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Attached are the pics of the gouged metal after SPI sealer applied....my question is this....will the upcoming primer and base coat cover these gouges?..Im thinking of appying a coat of bondo, but that is what the previous painter did,,,,suggestions?
 
That's SPI epoxy right? you can apply filler or polyester glaze on it within a few days with no need to scuff but after a few days you should sand it with some 180 grit before applying the filler. Polyester primer is another option. Those grinder marks might sand out with just the epoxy depending on how much build is there but from the looks of it I'd skim some filler on it and sand off what isn't needed.
 
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