Getting ready for buffing

JimKueneman

JimKueneman

Mopar Nut
So I used guide coat for my first 1000 grit sanding of UC, it worked great... easy to get just enough off to remove the peel. Is there a similar trick to use when moving to 1500 and 2500 to know when you have all the previous grit scratches out?

Jim
 
Do one panel at a time at least until you get a process you're comfortable with. One way is to finish sanding in a different direction with each grit. I like to start with 800 or 1000 by hand, then I go to 1500 on the DA. If I see any straight scratches after I'm done with the da, then I know I'm not really done with 1500.
 
Yes, re-apply the powdered guide coat in between grits.

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strum456 said:
Do one panel at a time at least until you get a process you're comfortable with. One way is to finish sanding in a different direction with each grit. I like to start with 800 or 1000 by hand, then I go to 1500 on the DA. If I see any straight scratches after I'm done with the da, then I know I'm not really done with 1500.
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I have had zero luck being able to use the DA... chasing pigtails I can't keep everything clean enough to do it.
 
JimKueneman said:
I have had zero luck being able to use the DA... chasing pigtails I can't keep everything clean enough to do it.
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I have eliminated pigtails by giving the clear several days to cure before sanding. Makes a huge difference. I think it was Jim C who said pigtails are caused by melted soft clear.

Don
 
JimKueneman said:
I have had zero luck being able to use the DA... chasing pigtails I can't keep everything clean enough to do it.
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Jim,
When using a DA on clear, you have to keep the RPMs down to avoid the pigtails. The 1000 grit on a hard block will remove the orange peel and urethane wave.
The 1500 and 2000 grit on the DA is simply refining the scratches. A soft interface pad is crucial and having an air hose nearby to blow the dust off helps as well.
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
Jim,
When using a DA on clear, you have to keep the RPMs down to avoid the pigtails. The 1000 grit on a hard block will remove the orange peel and urethane wave.
The 1500 and 2000 grit on the DA is simply refining the scratches. A soft interface pad is crucial and having an air hose nearby to blow the dust off helps as well.
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Wet or dry?
 
i do both wet and dry with a da. sander at 1/2 speed always. always use a soft interface pad as well and i also dont sand super soft clear. its always 24-48 hours or more. it has to be hardened up good. i do this stuff in some really dirty places as well. a boat factory where they are grinding fiberglass and everything else. yes i get the occasional random pigtail but nothing big. just a few on a whole job. i can just go back with some 1500 on the da and just take care of them in 5 min. 1000 grit i do dry then wet all grits after that.
 
How do you wet sand clear coat using a guide coat ?am I missing something ? Doesn’t it all just wash off ?
 
i would like to know as well. i have never gotten guide coat to work on finer than 600. you can use it and it will tell you if you actually sanded the spot or not but not when you have gotten all the scratches out because the scratches are just too fine for the guide coat to get into, let alone be able to see.
 
Jim C said:
i would like to know as well. i have never gotten guide coat to work on finer than 600. you can use it and it will tell you if you actually sanded the spot or not but not when you have gotten all the scratches out because the scratches are just too fine for the guide coat to get into, let alone be able to see.
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This was a quick little demonstration this morning before the sun came up. It did like I mentioned above stain the surface so at least you know that you’ve sanded it and you haven’t missed a spot whether it’s really getting down into the scratches or not will be probably later this week since it’s miserable and cloudy and stormy and I can’t really see that well in the garage
 
If your clear has cured for several days pigtails are telling you your disc is done. A worn disc generates heat while not removing as much material which is a recipe for pigtails. I change a disc at the first sign of a pigtail.

For what it’s worth here is my process based on advice from Jim C and Texas.

1000 Eagle yellow dry on a DA
1500 Tolex dry on a DA
2500 Buflex dry on a DA
Trizact 8000 wet on a DA

You will use a fair number of discs but there is a huge time savings. Worth every penny imho. Tape your edges!

Jim C uses the Tolex and Buflex wet.

Don
 
Man I've tried it. Let's say on a trunk thay is 5ftx5ft. How many 1500 5 inch discs would you say it calls for?

Maybe I have the wrong throw da sander. I feel that if I turn down the rpm, it's point less because it doesn't cut....

I've used sunmight , 1500, green discs with interface
 
Probably a couple of the 6” 1000 discs. The Eagle yellow discs have some kind of lube on them. I’m pretty much hooked on the Eagle abrasives at this point and I’ve tried quite a few others.

Don
 
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