gallon base question

B

bmxpegan411

Hi Guys,

I saw in an older post that Chad said the last quart in a gallon can of paint is "useless"
can you guys shed some light on this? I assumed if you stir very well, and right up to when you're pouring it that the paint should be consistent all the way to the last drop. I'm painting with a metallic Chromabase and the can is getting low, lol.
 
i can assure you the last qrt will be useless. especially if metallic. buy your paint , have it shaken then pour into qrt cans . easire to use and keeps the color close all the way through. it takes very little flake in the bottom crevasses to change the color .
 
shine;30838 said:
i can assure you the last qrt will be useless. especially if metallic. buy your paint , have it shaken then pour into qrt cans . easire to use and keeps the color close all the way through. it takes very little flake in the bottom crevasses to change the color .
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I read a bunch of guys take a gallon and have it split into quart cans...wouldn't this prove the same with the quart can since they're shaped the same?

what if it's stored in a container with a smooth bottom, like say a plastic container? (just food for thought)
 
when i shoot i usually use a qrt of base . base mixes 1:1 so i use a part of the reducer to rinse the qrt can. ensuring i get all of the mix out . i dont know about anyone else but i dont like shaking a gal can . i have been using the qrts for many years. your call but let me know what is in the bottom of the gal can when your done . :)
 
shine;30840 said:
when i shoot i usually use a qrt of base . base mixes 1:1 so i use a part of the reducer to rinse the qrt can. ensuring i get all of the mix out . i dont know about anyone else but i dont like shaking a gal can . i have been using the qrts for many years. your call but let me know what is in the bottom of the gal can when your done . :)
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thanks for the explanation! I was curious about getting the majority of the base out because the sides are all green and it seems I'd be wasting paint. I already have the base reduced but I need more in the near future and I'll just use the reducer to rinse all that out.

another question: I'm painting a Honda Del Sol, which is a very small car, and I cut through two quarts of base alot faster than I thought I would. I think my gun wasn't adjusted right and I was hosing it on. I painted both bumpers, the door jambs, inside of the doors, the roof and small things like the sail fin panel, side mirrors, and door handles. The only things left to paint are the sides of the car and inside of the trunk area. Question is how do you determine how much more base you need, or if you've got enough? I'm doing 3 coats, and have about 1.5 sprayable quarts left.

any input appreciated, and thanks again Chad!
 
My grandpa taught me how to stir paint with a paint stick when I was a kid back in the sixties and I still use that technique because I've had way to many experiences with solids stuck to the bottom to trust a shaker to mix things properly. I like the mixer idea though...
 
I don't remember a post stating that, curious as to what I was referring to.. I'm assuming you mean it was a post from me??

But if we had to throw out the last quart in every gallon of paint we bought we would all be in much worse financial shape than we are now.. lol..

If I am storing paint for a long time and only a quart is left in a gallon can I will re-package it, but I wouldn't call it useless.
 
i dont know how many times over the years painters have had trouble with a match when doing one in pieces . always lead back the the last bit in the can. it's almost impossible to mix with a stick .

and it was me who posted that .
 
I think a lot of it comes down to guys thinking they have it mixed well when some of the pigment is still settled down on the bottom and sides. I agree a quart can is best way to go but I've had numerous gallon cans where there have been a quart or less left in and painted things weeks after the main body and parts were done. I do have a shaker so it makes it easier, put it in and shake the shit out if it, pour it in the cup...then throw a splash or 2 of reducer in it and re-shake again. and pour into the mix.

Certainly if you don't have access to a shaker, the quart can is the better way to go.
 
With the Standox Basislack that I use, there isn't a problem with settling. I've never put a stick down into a can of it and come back with big lumps stuck to the stick like with some other paints. So part of it depends on the material, too.
 
Proper remixing is the issue, if you can't mix it back properly after it settles then there's going to be match problems.
 
I've got an old box of square nuts I throw a dozen in the can now and then if I'm worried before it goes on the shaker.
 
good stuff, thanks guys! and sorry Chad, lol.

I'm a newbie but I try to shake the hell out of my can, open and stir the hell out of it and I try to have the base still spinning as I pour out what I need, hoping this helps with consistency.
 
I bought a mixer that goes in a drill, it's listed as a paint/mud (drywall compound) mixer. The first time I used it I started out slow, but apparently not slow enough. It shot all over and was both my shirt and shoes, as well as the counter and floor. Now I put the drill on 1 and feather the trigger, it does an amazing job. I still use a wood stick to check the corners after for lumps, haven't had any yet.

This is the mixer
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002X2ET/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I've looked at those myself, have a couple on my amazon wish list. They would make pouring easier too, especially the gallon ones.
 
Steves69LS3;30965 said:
I use these lids. i can either use the handle to hand mix it or take it off and connect my drill. the blades scrape the sides and bottom of the can and the turbulence gets all the clumps out of the ridges.
pretty cheap too :)
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?...campaign=PLA&gclid=CKXS7Lbyv7kCFc6e4AodpDcAPg
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How many of those do you need? Can they be cleaned to use with something different? Or do you have an epoxy lid, and a new base lid for every new color, etc..
 
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