Euro 2020

Adamizer

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I tried euro again and I got some fantastic results, the finish I got was pretty slick, I’m not sure how I’ll be able to get enough peel to match factory any suggestions?

I shot this with an iwata w400 bellaria 1.4, 29psi, full fan 2.5 turns out from closed on fluid. 4:1:1 med activator slow reducer
 

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GMC Sierra boxside sprayed with euro and an iwata supernova 1.3 HD. Mixed 4:1:1 with medium activator and reducer. Drop your pressure or try a mix of medium and slow reducer.

Slick paint jobs are nice, but from a collision repair standpoint matching texture is an important part of bring the vehicle back to pre-accident condition.
16999384943494843923976795786083.jpg
 
Also as suggested above, one thing I hear from my insurance shops a lot.

First coat on a door med tack coat and let set 15 mins.
2nd coat full coat.

They say depending on the model you adjust the peel by how you lay the tack coat.
I have heard this on all 6 of our clears.

Heard many times this will match Ford, and Toyota when doing warranty work.
 
I tried euro again and I got some fantastic results, the finish I got was pretty slick, I’m not sure how I’ll be able to get enough peel to match factory any suggestions?

I shot this with an iwata w400 bellaria 1.4, 29psi, full fan 2.5 turns out from closed on fluid. 4:1:1 med activator slow reducer
Nice 2nd gen ram looks slick. Nice booth as well! Home built?
 
Nice 2nd gen ram looks slick. Nice booth as well! Home built?
Thanks, it’s a M1M booth, it’s the cheapest semi down draft I could find(and still wasn’t cheap lol). I had one that I made from roofing tin and 2”angle that worked just fine but I couldn’t get insurance for my business unless I had a UL approved booth.
 
Also as suggested above, one thing I hear from my insurance shops a lot.

First coat on a door med tack coat and let set 15 mins.
2nd coat full coat.

They say depending on the model you adjust the peel by how you lay the tack coat.
I have heard this on all 6 of our clears.

Heard many times this will match Ford, and Toyota when doing warranty work.
I imagine mixed 4:1:1 you can still get proper build with this method?
 
With the real peelers like Ford trucks, when I was doing collision I would often spray two "normal" coats using my Sata HVLP with a 1.4 needle/nozzle with the PSI cut back 2 or 3 pounds. That gave the desired orange peel. As for longevity I never had comebacks or heard of issues and while I never had a gauge to measure I feel pretty sure that there was as much or more clear on those panels as on the rest of the vehicle. OEM peel is indicative of the absolute minimum amount of material used so 2 coats with the HVLP was sufficient IMO. Others I did similar to what Barry described with a first coat that was lighter, then the second coat closer to "normal". But if I didn't want to have to stress and think about it, I would just use the HVLP and that would almost always give a "nice" peely finish.
Stuff that didn't have much peel/texture I didn't really worry too much about matching texture as I never got/heard any complaints from customers saying the repair was too slick. Everyone seemed to like that. :) IDK maybe some folks want it, but most see a nearly texture free finish as indicative of the quality of the repair.
 
All these years were about having no orange peel!
I don't know Chris, the words "nice" and "peely" never fit together for me.
But, I get it ;).
Lol Ernie. Often when you would try and match the peel the customer would complain about what a crappy job you did. Then I would have to point out that I was simply matching it to the rest of the vehicle. Most had never noticed until you pointed it out to them. Some would still be mad even after showing and telling them your reasoning for doing so. One reason why I kinda stopped worrying about matching texture unless I was specifically told to.
Lord I pray I don't have to go back to doing collision. :)
 
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