Epoxy sealer over cured epoxy primer

Ninja_00

Ninja_00

New Member
My firewall is primed and blocked with 600, I was going to shoot reduced epoxy as a sealer then wait 2hrs then waterborne base, ground, mid(pearl) and clear. Something came up and had to stop before I could spray the sealer and continue.
I shot the last coat of primer two weeks ago waited 3 days then sanded, it's been sitting for 10 days sanded to 600, I don't know if I should re sand with course shoot 1:1 and then sealer or can I scuff with pad and shoot reduced epoxy and continue ?
 
Ninja_00 said:
Scuff, then reduced epoxy used as wet on wet sealer should have enough bite ?
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Yes. Wet on wet is not how you use epoxy as a sealer though. Only time you should use epoxy and follow up with base a short time later is reducing it 1:1:1. You can go to base 30 minutes after 1:1:1. Ideally though you would give it more time, one hour would be better IMO. Any other reduction 1:1:1/2 or 1:1:10% you need to wait longer. Epoxy does not behave like urethane and "wet on wet" is a term applied to urethane sealers.
 
I would typically use a red pad in this situation when using sealer, since even 1:1:1 will fill red pad scratches well enough unless some challenging color is boing used, like a fine bright metallic. But any 3-stage should be fine, and a red pad will do a better job much quicker than gray imo.
 
I just wasn't sure if Barry meant scuff and re prime or scuff and seal.
Top coat is 4 stage pearl yellow (Ferrari Giallo Triplo Strato ) its ridiculously expensive so I'm just making sure I understand correctly.
What I meant by wet on wet is im going to shoot reduced epoxy as a sealer and then wait a couple hours and then shoot the waterborne base.
Thanks for the replies.
 
I guess the question I should have asked is if reduced epoxy for a sealer has the same bonding strength as 1:1, I wasn't concerned about scratches I know the logistics of that, the headers are 2 inches away from the firewall that I'm painting body color, I wasn't sure if its would make a difference or not.
 
Like to add when I am doing a lower line collision repair and when sealing with epoxy 1:1:1 I shoot a thin piss coat and then come back in 20 to 30 mins at 70 temps but longer wait times when cooler now that is a collision job BUT not on restorations or higher end repairs.
 
I want to get real here, there are a lot of fairly high-end shops that don't often seal at all. I don't know why epoxy at 1:1:1 would be considered lower line at all, I have to respectfully disagree. I think guys like @Jim C that have used this technique many times, and so have I, and I have never had a delamination or any kind of early failure that could be attributed to 1:1:1 epoxy.
 
As long as you have full coverage on your undercoat, sealer is just an adhesion promoter or a tie coat. 1:1:1 is excellent at that. It adheres well to the undercoat and to the topcoat (base or SS). More build does not equal more adhesion.

Now if your undercoat is not uniform then epoxy reduced less would be a better choice because it will cover better. But like I said coverage or build does not mean better adhesion in regards to epoxy as a sealer.
 
Ninja_00 said:
I guess the question I should have asked is if reduced epoxy for a sealer has the same bonding strength as 1:1, I wasn't concerned about scratches I know the logistics of that, the headers are 2 inches away from the firewall that I'm painting body color, I wasn't sure if its would make a difference or not.
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Epoxy isn't going to save the paint if the headers are so hot or close that they burn the paint. 2 inches is pretty close. Might consider a wrap in that area, even if using stainless steel as your header material. Ceramic coatings might help some but most are too thin to really insulate heat. Only one I know of is the white lightning coating by SwainTech. It's actually applied thick enough to insulate. But many don't like that coating due to it being only available in white.
 
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