Epoxy primer over oem paint

A

Aaron37

Hi there, new to the forum. Seems to be a wealth of knowledge here. I've got a few kits of tintable Raptor liner left over and want to spray my rocker panels on my white 2014 ram. I travel lots of gravel roads and oil patch bush roads and as a result, I have a ton of rock chips on the rocker panels. My plan is to use a spot blaster to get any of the chips that are down to bare steel free of surface rust and sand the bare metal with 80 grit and the rest of the oem paint I will sand to 180 grit and a maroon scotchbrite pad. Now, the question I have is, is it best to just spot prime the bare metal spots or completely cover the area to be bed lined with white spi epoxy primer? If the epoxy primer will bond aggressively to the oem paint surface (after being degreased, scuffed and degreased again) then I would rather prime everything so that the raptor will chemically bonds to the primer and have the great protection properties of the epoxy primer if the raptor liner gets a little chip out of it. Thanks for any help!
 
Your prep plan sounds good but to give you the best protection, i would spray 2 full coats of epoxy over the metal and the sanded paint, let set and raptor after 24 hours without sanding.
 
Perfect! That's exactly what I was going to do. One more question. The TDS says that between coats of epoxy, the longer the time the better. What is good length of time to wait between coats? 4 hours at 65-70 degrees Fahrenheit?
 
Awesome! Thank you! Not sure if I should post this in a different thread but to keep on the topic of the raptor liner I'll post it here:

I'd like to clear coat it afterwards, and bring that I can only let the vehicle sit for a couple days without using it should I use the 2100 clear? Or would you recommend the 5000 or the Universal clear? The Raptor Liner TDS says to wait 24 hours before painting over it and the 2100 TDS says to wait overnight for best results; which one would be best to follow? And how many coats of clear would you recommend? I'm doing for sure 2 coats but can do more if need be. Since it will be over bedliner, I'm not going to cut and buff if that makes a difference in which clear coat is better.

I was planning on leaving the same tape line on the body for the primer, bedliner and the clear coat but would it be best to remove and re-tape after each one? Should I apply the tape a little bit higher before spraying the clear coat so that they bedliner is completely covered for to the extra thickness of the bedliner? My plan is to feather the bedliner out towards the top so that it isn't as thick at the tape line.

Prepping a chrome bumper for SPI epoxy primer; is it best to sand blast and then scuff to 80 grit it off sanding good enough? Sorry for all the questions, I'm fairly new to this. Thanks again for all your help Barry!
 
Does not matter witch clear all of them need the raptor to set 24 hours. (They know their product best)
Chrome bumber you can.
Sandblast.
Sand with 80 DA.
Sand by hand with 180.
 
Aaron37 said:
Hi there, new to the forum. Seems to be a wealth of knowledge here. I've got a few kits of tintable Raptor liner left over and want to spray my rocker panels on my white 2014 ram. I travel lots of gravel roads and oil patch bush roads and as a result, I have a ton of rock chips on the rocker panels. My plan is to use a spot blaster to get any of the chips that are down to bare steel free of surface rust and sand the bare metal with 80 grit and the rest of the oem paint I will sand to 180 grit and a maroon scotchbrite pad. Now, the question I have is, is it best to just spot prime the bare metal spots or completely cover the area to be bed lined with white spi epoxy primer? If the epoxy primer will bond aggressively to the oem paint surface (after being degreased, scuffed and degreased again) then I would rather prime everything so that the raptor will chemically bonds to the primer and have the great protection properties of the epoxy primer if the raptor liner gets a little chip out of it. Thanks for any help!
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Just curious if you ever did this project with success. I'm in a similar situation to yours and was going the raptor route. Could you share in tips or do's/don't. How did you do your tape? I'd assume if you didn't remove the tape after about an hour using raptor it might be a real PITA to remove. Also were you successful at feathering the liner so it didn't have such a big edge?
 
This was over 5 years ago, I doubt you'll get an answer, but you never know. Typically these old threads are meant as archives and knowledge sources, not really meant to be brought back to the top unless the OP returns.
 
crashtech said:
This was over 5 years ago, I doubt you'll get an answer, but you never know. Typically these old threads are meant as archives and knowledge sources, not really meant to be brought back to the top unless the OP returns.
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Probably right. I tried to message the guy directly but can’t. He’s likely no longer even active. Was worth a shot.
 
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