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Epoxy Primer and Contact Adhesive

#1
The vinyl top I put on my Coronet had a million bubbles in it since I put it on so I finally decided to put new glass in and replace the top. I thought it was my fault for not using enough 3M trim adhesive but what it seems like is the adhesive did not adhere to the SPI epoxy primer very well. After pealing off the top there is almost no glue left on the car it lifted right off the epoxy. I scuffed it up with 400 grit before I put on the top. Should I use something more aggressive? I used the 700 W&G remover before installing the top last time.

Thanks,
Jim
 
#7
glue drives me nuts. finally got it reduced so it does not fly out in big buggers. sprays out much smoother. like the old days of cob webs .
 
#10
Tolulene . it is what i clean up with or reduce glue . i use convertible top adhesive for upholstery .
laq thinner and such will just make jelly .
 
#11
If proper coats of contact cement get sprayed on both sides & you get a bubble or a few bubbles later, reheating (clothing iron) & repressing the area can reactivate the glue. A lot of times thinning out will also help the bonding from not being sprayed too dry. The 10 to 15 dollar hf suction sprayers with 1.8 tip are still as good as any for small quantities of contact cement use. You can also get the 10 packs of bags to keep from cleaning out the entire cup afterwards. Pressure pot sprayers are better for larger jobs.
 
#13
you need good uniform coverage . that is why i reduce mine. every lump or brush stroke can show. many shops will use a heat gun and flat roller to go over it and get rid of bumps .
 
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