Epoxy over rattle can

J

jtfx6552

Member
I'm doing a restore on a 65 Mustang. They originally had a bunch of drips on the bottom of the floor pans. On a few blogs I've seen, It seems the most "accurate" looking drips are guys are using rattle cans to make the drips, with epoxy underneath obviously, then they cover with more epoxy and then finish paint.

How can I know which rattle won't lift when I hit it with SPI epoxy.
 
I'm concerned about that too, I did some tests where I tried to make epoxy drips, but it seems it wants to, not sure the right word, spider or crater rather than make original looking drips. Any ideas on how to make drips appreciated,
 
With something that you are restoring this close to perfect or over restored, my biggest concern is the thought of using rattlecan anything on this vehicle.

With that being said, I usually dont have any issues making drips in Epoxy :eek:
 
Not much good in rattlecans usually but there are some epoxies available. I watched an episode of Graveyard cars a few nights ago where they applied some self etch out of a rattlecan before sealer-the more I see of that show the more shocked I am that they have the reputation they do...especially the mechanical work! LOL
 
Bob Hollinshead;n79905 said:
Not much good in rattlecans usually but there are some epoxies available. I watched an episode of Graveyard cars a few nights ago where they applied some self etch out of a rattlecan before sealer-the more I see of that show the more shocked I am that they have the reputation they do...especially the mechanical work! LOL
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Graveyard cars tries for true factory originality::::::::::::eek:riginally they all were rust buckets from the factory.:confused:
 
You could try making the epoxy a sealer and applying too much on and see if it drips, I bet it will. Spray the first and second coat on light and then pile the next two or three back to back, the first 2 will help with fisheyes. You could also help it along with a pen cap or other pointed object randomly putting dots over the area you want them. You could also use a slower reducer to keep it wet longer to allow gravity to pull on it.

You could also try diping a brush in the epoxy and flicking it and see if the splatter dots look like what you might want.

Also try placing a stirring stick in front of your guns cap blocking the fan while spraying and use it for a stipple effect I've used it for airbrushing a stippled back ground for things like granite/stone.
 
I would rather "texture" the epoxy. Lower the air pressure and your gun will just spit out drops of paint.Talking like 5 psi. Open your fluid until you get the size drops you want. At least that way its all the same chemistry at least. Let them dry too though, a quick top coat at pressure might just end up flowing them in.

The only way you will screw it up with the rattle can is if that stuff does not completely dry before going to the epoxy, and having a drop of paint, there is a real good chance especially if its got any lacquer in it.
 
Bob Hollinshead;n79905 said:
Not much good in rattlecans usually but there are some epoxies available. I watched an episode of Graveyard cars a few nights ago where they applied some self etch out of a rattlecan before sealer-the more I see of that show the more shocked I am that they have the reputation they do...especially the mechanical work! LOL
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LOL I saw the engine problems, its always someone else that cause the problem. problem
One of his cars went through Barrett Jackson and only got 65-70,000, not as flawless as he thinks.
 
Barry;n79919 said:
LOL I saw the engine problems, its always someone else that cause the problem. problem
One of his cars went through Barrett Jackson and only got 65-70,000, not as flawless as he thinks.
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I think they subsidize their income with the show to survive and also their sponsored laser measuring system. I was looking at getting a new system and
theirs were one of the ones offered by my equipment dealer and I said absolutely not and didn't even bother looking at the info packet.
 
I narrowed the fan pattern down, and held the gun a little further away than usual and just held it in one spot. Darn that's hard to do, lol. Eventually I had drips in the epoxy. Most came out OK, had a few areas with some spidering, but I'm sure I can sand that out. I'm wondering how long it will take the drips to completely solidify. Should I wait more than 24 hours for another coat?
 
I have to do the same on the bottom of a firewall soon-replicate the factory runs that were there. I really don't see an issue with dialing the gun down for this regardless if it's epoxy or paint and the viscosity is right. I'd much rather use a quality product rather than a 1k.
24 hrs should be fine, it will take longer for a complete cure because of the thickness but nothing will change.
 
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