Epoxy on chassis. When to assemble?

Dom

New Member
So I decided to go with SPI epoxy for my Dodge Viper chassis restoration project because the color match and the fact that SPI can be used as one stage no top coat required deal.

I am spraying the frame next week and I suspect epoxy does take good while to harden up well. So before I start squeezing in the control arms, dropping the diff in, and tightening all the hardware how long do you think I need to wait for it to cure so I don't end up messing up that nice finish? I am willing to wait till its rock solid be it months if need be but I need to plan ahead of time.

Thanks gents.
 
So parts been drying in 70* for four/five days now. They are not tacky by any means but they still have that squeaky feel to touch. Is this normal?
 
Dom, your good and full cure is about 90 days and will be tougher, just for your information.
 
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So chassis is curing. Probably craziest question you'll hear today... the areas where my epoxy blends into original chassis paint. Can these blend areas be wet sanded and polished once it cures? Color and sheen is spot on that of the original but the edges where I stopped my spray are obviously dusty so it breaks away the color.
 
So chassis is curing. Probably craziest question you'll hear today... the areas where my epoxy blends into original chassis paint. Can these blend areas be wet sanded and polished once it cures? Color and sheen is spot on that of the original but the edges where I stopped my spray are obviously dusty so it breaks away the color.
Wow, great question!
I dont have a clue, as I never tried to buff epoxy, and no one has ever mentioned that they have before.
We have burnt epoxy in with blending agent and without.
Hopefully, one of the pros here can help.
 
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So I decided to go with SPI epoxy for my Dodge Viper chassis restoration project because the color match and the fact that SPI can be used as one stage no top coat required deal.

I am spraying the frame next week and I suspect epoxy does take good while to harden up well. So before I start squeezing in the control arms, dropping the diff in, and tightening all the hardware how long do you think I need to wait for it to cure so I don't end up messing up that nice finish? I am willing to wait till its rock solid be it months if need be but I need to plan ahead of time.

Thanks gents.
Chassis restoration on a Viper…sounds interesting!
 
Well but spi is definitely not a flat product either. I would say it looks semi gloss the way I sprayed it. We shall see, I will try very fine grits to see where it gets me. I just need to get some of the dusting off. It is annoying not just for the sake of looks but also collecting lint from towels.
 
So I am pleased to say epoxy can be wet sanded and polished. I was able to polish the transition areas where it blends to the original paint. Mind you these areas only been red scuff pad sanded so you cant just go all aggressive with wool and rough compound and put heat in there. The trick was to wet sand with 1500 and then refine with medium cut polish being careful not to put too much heat otherwise epoxy will heat up too much and smear. Loving this stuff but I would love to see this product in 2k aerosols like those sold by Spraymax and Eastwood. It would make small projects like these much more appealing to DIY'ers like myself.
 
Well, I learned something here about buffing the first time I had heard of it.
Take crash up next time on his offer and it will save you a lot of work.

The spray cans are good for #$×@ cars and will never happen here.
 
So I am pleased to say epoxy can be wet sanded and polished. I was able to polish the transition areas where it blends to the original paint. Mind you these areas only been red scuff pad sanded so you cant just go all aggressive with wool and rough compound and put heat in there. The trick was to wet sand with 1500 and then refine with medium cut polish being careful not to put too much heat otherwise epoxy will heat up too much and smear. Loving this stuff but I would love to see this product in 2k aerosols like those sold by Spraymax and Eastwood. It would make small projects like these much more appealing to DIY'ers like myself.
Those spray cans aren’t made for and can’t work with high solids products. Anybody who’s mixed a can of epoxy that’s been sitting for a year will know what I’m talking about.
 
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