Epoxy and heatlamp

AAE

AAE

Learner
Can a lamp be used on small sections of epoxy? Something like a repaired dent on a panel.
 
I use a lamp on the epoxy all the time. (in cool weather)
A couple hours under the lamp and it sands like 2 days old.
You just want to monitor the temp so it doesn't get to hot.
My lamp is good at about 3 ft away. I don't let it
get above about 120 deg.
 
Barry, I seem to remember you saying someplace that epoxy can be lamped for 15min and cool for 15min. I don't remember for how many coats and/or if that was for unreduced or as a sealer. Is my memory failing me, again? While we are here, how well would it prevent moisture penetration as a sealer for production work?
 
I happen to think the best way a heat lamp prevents moisture from being under the repair is by preheating the surface before spraying, then let it cool a bit before applying the epoxy. This is especially important if you had to wipe down the surface with #700 on a cool day, for example. Heat lamps are great for chasing moisture and solvents away when used properly. I think heat lamping between epoxy coats is a decent way to speed up the process as long as a non-contact thermometer is used to prevent overheating. Also the surface should be allowed to cool somewhat just before the next coat.
 
Use the lamp to do 3 heating and cooling cycles and it will work even better on most products. SPI epoxy is some good stuff! I've noticed doing leadwork on the outside of a panel doesn't seem to have any negative affects on the epoxy applied on the backside of a panel and that's like 450*
 
AAE;34874 said:
Barry, I seem to remember you saying someplace that epoxy can be lamped for 15min and cool for 15min. I don't remember for how many coats and/or if that was for unreduced or as a sealer. Is my memory failing me, again? While we are here, how well would it prevent moisture penetration as a sealer for production work?
Click to expand...

Yes that was for one coat unreduced for production work.
 
Bob Hollinshead;34878 said:
Use the lamp to do 3 heating and cooling cycles and it will work even better on most products. SPI epoxy is some good stuff! I've noticed doing leadwork on the outside of a panel doesn't seem to have any negative affects on the epoxy applied on the backside of a panel and that's like 450*
Click to expand...

Welding a tab to an axle where the epoxy was 12 years old, the mig would not penetrate the metal, had to get red-hot with torch and then mig, burned about 1-2 inches at best next to weld.
 
Barry;34882 said:
Welding a tab to an axle where the epoxy was 12 years old, the mig would not penetrate the metal, had to get red-hot with torch and then mig, burned about 1-2 inches at best next to weld.
Click to expand...

A 1/2" wide strip of clean bare metal in the weld zone via a 4 1/2" disc grinder should always be accomplished before MIG welding.
MIG doesn't dig.
You want to weld dirty steel crank up the arc welder and use some 6011 or 6010. Still better to get clean metal first but sometimes we just seem to not have the time to do that.
 
Senile Old Fart;34897 said:
A 1/2" wide strip of clean bare metal in the weld zone via a 4 1/2" disc grinder should always be accomplished before MIG welding.
MIG doesn't dig.
You want to weld dirty steel crank up the arc welder and use some 6011 or 6010. Still better to get clean metal first but sometimes we just seem to not have the time to do that.
Click to expand...

I used a 3 inch 24 grit rolox grinding disc.
 
Barry;34907 said:
I used a 3 inch 24 grit rolox grinding disc.
Click to expand...

WOW and you couldn't get the metal clean enough to mig, that epoxy must have penetrated the micropores of the metal!! awesome :) Or did I misread this and have my head in its usual parking place?
 
Best i can figure, it was a very stout axle for a ford 9" on the 57 T-bird, best I can figure is I had the ground at the brake hub area and it was just too far away for the thickness of the housing, reason was i did not want to ground another area for the ground, as when I did this axle in 99, I put 5 heavy coat of epoxy on it I wanted it to out live me. LOL
 
Once in a while we have to weld something that is already finished, and to avoid grinding a spot away from the repair area we'll grind a tiny spot right by the repair and tack a bolt or screw onto the part, just something for the ground clamp to hang from.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top