AAE;34874 said:Barry, I seem to remember you saying someplace that epoxy can be lamped for 15min and cool for 15min. I don't remember for how many coats and/or if that was for unreduced or as a sealer. Is my memory failing me, again? While we are here, how well would it prevent moisture penetration as a sealer for production work?
Bob Hollinshead;34878 said:Use the lamp to do 3 heating and cooling cycles and it will work even better on most products. SPI epoxy is some good stuff! I've noticed doing leadwork on the outside of a panel doesn't seem to have any negative affects on the epoxy applied on the backside of a panel and that's like 450*
Barry;34882 said:Welding a tab to an axle where the epoxy was 12 years old, the mig would not penetrate the metal, had to get red-hot with torch and then mig, burned about 1-2 inches at best next to weld.
heat on 20-30 minutes, cool it down completely and repeatAAE;34884 said:Bob, how long is a "cycle"?
Senile Old Fart;34897 said:A 1/2" wide strip of clean bare metal in the weld zone via a 4 1/2" disc grinder should always be accomplished before MIG welding.
MIG doesn't dig.
You want to weld dirty steel crank up the arc welder and use some 6011 or 6010. Still better to get clean metal first but sometimes we just seem to not have the time to do that.
Barry;34907 said:I used a 3 inch 24 grit rolox grinding disc.