egale abrasives

i use their super tack yellow film discs. i have been using that stuff instead of the 3m finishing film for the past 2 years now. i love it. blows the 3m out of the water. it cost less and the discs last 2-4 times longer. i usually start with the 1000 then switch to 1500. i also recently tried their bufflex system out as a substitute for the 3m trizact. those are awesome as well. the trizact discs work ok but it very difficult to tell when they have slowed or stopped cutting because the foam pad keeps making froth on the surface so you end up not working out all your 1500 scratches out then you have to buff like crazy anyway. you dont get that with the bufflex. i havent used a ton of it yet but from what i can tell so far, they seem to last about the same as trizact but you can better judge when its time to change the disc. bufflex comes in black 3000 or green 2500. i have found the black ones to be a waste atleast with spi clears. the green cuts the 1500 finishing film scratches out better and faster and still buffs right out just as fast as trizact ever did. i can see the black ones maybe for a rock hard clear like a ceramic type or something like that. i recently sanded and buffed some doors i did in black about a year and a half ago with euro clear. even with that the green buffed out instantly. anything else you want to know?
 
uhhh, yellow film no. thats a dry system. the bufflex is avail for either wet or dry but they are different discs. the bufflex i use wet like trizact. i like all dry except for my final sanding. that i like wet. dry i get way less pigtails than i do with wet. i think dirt just like to stick to or gets attracted to a wet surface, then it gets caught under the disc and your done.
 
Jim, how do you handle concave surfaces in your color sanding system? I am doing a '70 GTO which has lots of interesting concave areas.
 
thanks jim . i guess i'll give it a try on the 37. running low on 3m so may need to restock for the 37. been using hook-it or mirka for a long time.
 
Crash, i find the da will get 95% of the areas. If there are areas i cant do then i do it by hand but i also watch myself because if i cant get the da in there then in most cases i cant get the buffer in their either.

Shine, yeah i know how you like 3m, lol. If you liked the 3m then you will like the eagle versions the same or better.
 
i bought out a supply years ago. had hook-it stacked everywhere. just now getting down to the last of it. not really a 3m fan any more. i hate the green tape !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
How do you tell when you are done with each step using the Eagle pads?

I tried using 1000, 1500, then 3000 Trizact, but I ended up with scratches that wouldn't buff out. I was using 3M compound and a white 3M wool pads (the same that Bob Hollinshead uses).

Here is what ended up working for me. It was a LOT of work, so I would like to perfect the process.

1. 1000 wet on a hard block (to get out the dirt and thane wave)
2. 1500 Eagle Film until there are no straight line scratches (it takes forever)
3. 2000 wet on a Motorguard Memory Foam pad until there are no DA cratches (takes even longer)
4. 3000 Trizact until there are no straight line scratches (not so bad)

I had a hard time taking out the scratches from the previous step, no matter what. With the DA all the way though, I could not tell if the scratches where gone. After hitting it with compound I would have to go backwords a step or two.
 
Ill tell you, as with anything practice makes perfect. I will say the 1500 on the da should take 1000 scratches out super quick. Another thing is you dont really need to do the 2000 step. Trizact 3000 is made to remove 1200 grit and finer. I da with 1000 until i get everything removed then its just a quick.buzz ober with 1500, say 2 passes or so. I would say about 1/2 the time spent on 1500 as with 1000. I then.spend a bit more time with my 3000 step to make sure its all right then it should buff like butter.
 
just to add, eagle will send you free samples of any of their products. you just cover shipping. so, shine if you want to try the yellow film discs and the buffles system just go on their site and order a sample pack. if you try bufflex i would do it wet like bob did. i cant imagine sanding 3000 dry. the bufflex come in psa or velcro. be sure to order the velcro. the psa bufflex discs require a special interface pad.
 
Jim,
When you start with the DA and 1000 is this always on "flow coated" clear? My understanding has been that I needed to block sand the clear to remove any wave first and then work to refine the scratches.
I can't see an interface pad on a DA removing urethane wave. Am I missing something or still thinking old school?
 
no not always. 1000 on a da is not going to cut out urethane wave, atleast not much. the thing to shoot for is to try and not spray the clear with urethane wave in it. if you are doing the level of a paintjob that needs to be lazer smooth then you should be flowcoating, starting with 600g or both.
 
Jim C;12557 said:
Ill tell you, as with anything practice makes perfect. I will say the 1500 on the da should take 1000 scratches out super quick. Another thing is you dont really need to do the 2000 step. Trizact 3000 is made to remove 1200 grit and finer. I da with 1000 until i get everything removed then its just a quick.buzz ober with 1500, say 2 passes or so. I would say about 1/2 the time spent on 1500 as with 1000. I then.spend a bit more time with my 3000 step to make sure its all right then it should buff like butter.
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I don't doubt that the process works perfectly for you Jim. I had a really hard time with this step though. I was using a 3/16 Dynabrade DA. For example, I would take a new 1500 pad, and I would have to go over the 1000 hard block scratches very slowly with 50% overlap atleast 4 times to get them out. Usually it would take 6 passes. I tried taking out 1500 scratches with the Trizact discs, and it just wasn't working. That is why I got some 2000 and started doing it that way. What could I possibly be doing wrong? I'd like to figure it out, becasue I plan to do some touch up sanding and buffing on the car after car show season is over.

Thanks Jim
 
you know i could see the possibility of the 1000 being hard to get out since its hand sanding which is less consistant than a da but the trizact should get the 1500 right out no problem. only time it doesnt is when the disc is wiped out. it will stop cutting but you cant really tell it stops cutting which is why i switched to the bufflex system. is it possible you are overusing the disc? i constantly have this problem then have to go back.
 
I guess I'll have to mess with it more. I think I have some 1200 film discs that came in a sample pack. Maybe I'll try that on the 1000 hard block scratches, then go to 1500. You are right, it is hard to tell when the trizact pads are worn out.

I'm also wondering if some 2000 eagle film pads would help me out with those 1500 scratches, so I don't have to rub them out by hand. Even with a new Trizact pad and going over the panel 6 passes, I would have DA scratches that I couldn't buff out. I am only assuming that the problem is me not getting out all of the 1500 scratches. I really don't know what I was doing wrong. I eventually got a process that worked well...it just takes a very long time.
 
geez i'm a dinosaur. i still use all the grits from 1000 up. i use 2000 -2500 by hand before the trizac pads. but i will say this new buffers has made it easier . don't mind running it like that 9 lb one i use to use.
 
strum456;12582 said:
I guess I'll have to mess with it more. I think I have some 1200 film discs that came in a sample pack. Maybe I'll try that on the 1000 hard block scratches, then go to 1500. You are right, it is hard to tell when the trizact pads are worn out.

I'm also wondering if some 2000 eagle film pads would help me out with those 1500 scratches, so I don't have to rub them out by hand. Even with a new Trizact pad and going over the panel 6 passes, I would have DA scratches that I couldn't buff out. I am only assuming that the problem is me not getting out all of the 1500 scratches. I really don't know what I was doing wrong. I eventually got a process that worked well...it just takes a very long time.
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Hard block + hand sanding = disaster for me. I have given up on that technique as I hate to buff for days at a time. If the wave is bad, block and reshoot has been the easiest for me.
Then da sanding with the 3m film system.
going to try the Eagle system next time.
 
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