Dupont 210S Waterborne Primer

R

robin58

After numerous years of my 53 Chevy truck sitting indoors in SPI Epoxy primer I finally have gotten around to finishing it. I scuffed everything down. Hit it with another coat of SPI as a sealer, basecoat and clearcoated. 99% of everything turned out exactly as planned. But on the rear of the cab I started getting some lift / alligatoring from what I would assume is old paint finish bleeding through. It hadn't done it before which kind of puzzled me. I've tried redoing it a few times after sanding, degreasing, etc but for whatever reason there's always a few areas with issues. A local decent auto paint supplier recommended I use DuPont 210S waterborne primer/sealer as a barrier and then proceed again with my preferred products. Anyone ever use this stuff?
 
The waterborne primer will solve the immediate problem but not the long term problem.

Can we get a few good pictures?
Has the vehicle been in the sun?

The pictures should show us what is going on and give us a better idea of what steps to take.

Could be as simple as trapped solvent and best fix is sand smooth and throw in the sun for 3-4 days, OR, lets not talk about the or right now.
 
Thanks for your reply.

I tried to get some pictures with my camera but couldn't get it clear enough. I'll borrow a camera from someone today hopefully to get a picture that will show it.

But to answer you question, no the cab hasn't been in the sun because the problem happens as soon as I shoot the basecoat on it. It's almost behaving like there's lacquer pain (or is enamel I always get confused which one it is that causes lifting/alligatoring/cracking). But what puzzles me is the SPI Epoxy doesn't have an issue with it, nor did any areas pop up when I shot #6520-1 or shot the Epoxy again as a sealer. Wouldn't I have seen an issue in the years it sat like this if there was indeed lacquer there that was bleeding through? Yet as soon as I hit the back portion of the cab under the rear window, it's like there's a chemical dissolving a small area of the underlying layers (it's limited to just a tiny area between one corner window and under the rear window of the cab). Because SPI products seem to be OK with whatever it is, was the reason my local shop suggested using a waterborne as an impervious barrier. His reasoning was whatever incompatible chemical was in any underlying area wouldn't dissolve into a waterborne product - does this make sense?

I know the smart thing to do would be to take it down to the bare metal obviously, but if it's something not needed than obviously I'll proceed as suggested locally.
 
Last edited:
As an add on, just to see if it was the "old" paint, I dug up the old glovebox door which I am not going to be using. I sanded it so I could see a multitude of layers (I guess original primer, original paint, resto primer and resto paint) and sprayed it directly with my basecoat figuring if there was going to be any reaction that would be the way to see it. So far nothing has appeared.

So now it depends Barry's response to the validity of the barrier aspect of the waterborne which route I take. I suspect I'll be taking it down to the bare metal though.
 
You are really better to correct whatever the problem is because an alcohol or waterborne prime will act as a good barrier coat but it can also accelerate the problem underneath and the next issue will be bubbling down the road.
 
That's what I figured the advice would be. I ended up taking it down to the bare metal as really didn't want to have to possibly end up taking everything back apart again in a few months time. This time I stuck with just using your epoxy for build instead of filler primer. Got two layers of base on it today on top of the epoxy shot as a sealer and no signs of any problems. I'll hit it with some 1500 sandpaper tomorrow and finish my base and clear it tomorrow. Thanks for the advice and thanks for the great products.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top