Compatibility of SPI primers/UC with Barrett Jackson SS

H

HVAC Phil

Barrett Jackson has a new line of paint, and i'd really like to use the "true blue" color on my Ranger. It is made by Sherwin-Williams, so it isn't a junk line of paint. Mixes 4:1. Would i have issues using it over SPI primers, then coating with SPI UC? I'd prefer not to use the epoxy primer/clear in the series they provide.
 
Barry;28380 said:
All will work.
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Great, I really wanted to use all of your products Barry. They worked out for me so well on my wifes Mustang. Just didn't want to do another black on my truck, pain in the ass to keep clean.
 
There are other kinds of SS that are probably better suited for use along with SPI clear. I think Barry has said that PPG Concept is actually intermixable with SPI clear. Even if intermixing is not done, this indicates that using the products wet-on-wet won't yield any surprises. Sherwin-Williams makes a vast variety of paints, my best guess is that this B-J branded stuff is probably a variation of Dimension Pro urethane. I've used Dimension Pro SS urethane under SPI MS clear (similar to Universal, now discontinued), but it takes a lot more care with technique and dry time. If I had it to do over again I would bite the bullet and spend the money on a perfectly compatible product.
 
i can guarantee you it is a cheap line of junk marketed under bj just like eastwood and sumitt. it will take twice as much to cover , likely solvent pop and die back something terrible taking the uv with it.
 
You could check and see if they can mix it in martin senour pro base it covers good and sprays alot like tech base and it's a lot cheaper and way better than crossfire. Sherwin Williams would call it atx I think. I've used it with spi epoxy, and universal clear without any problems.
 
curt b;28439 said:
You could check and see if they can mix it in martin senour pro base it covers good and sprays alot like tech base and it's a lot cheaper and way better than crossfire. Sherwin Williams would call it atx I think. I've used it with spi epoxy, and universal clear without any problems.
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See, i haven't been able to find too much info on this paint. It isn't available locally either at a sherwin-williams supply store. If i knew the paint code of it, i would just have Chad mix up some Pro Spray for me, i know it is compatible with SPI. This isn't going to be a daily driver, so long term durability isn't a huge concern for me. It will be garaged, never driven in weather.
 
Planet color urethane number is pcgk4, Planetcolor.com. Sherwin Williams true blue metallic 1971-2011 is 3110 on their web site. I don't know if you want metallic or solid color. I don't know if this will help but someone might be able to cross one of these numbers with theirs if it is the right color.
 
I just want the solid color, like the Barrett Jackson line. Thanks for the info, i'll try contacting Chad and see if he can do anything with the Pro-Spray.
 
Well i've hit a dead end on getting this color in a solid form. I'm not sure i have the skill set yet to lay down a nice even metallic job.
 
HVAC Phil;28480 said:
Well i've hit a dead end on getting this color in a solid form. I'm not sure i have the skill set yet to lay down a nice even metallic job.
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Then don't let us talk you out of it. Use it...get it where you want it, put it in the sun for a few days, sand it with 600 and clear with universal...I'm betting you'll like it....Dave
 
The thing about sanding and clearing some SS paints, even solids, it that the sanding can disturb enough pigment to change the color. There are many ways around this, one being to clear the SS wet-on-wet with a known compatible clear, usually from the same paint line, then sand and re-clear with SPI. Another is to go ahead and wet sand the SS, then put one coat of color back over that to correct the color, then proceed with clearing after a carefully determined flash time. Not all colors will change, so some experimentation is called for.
 
crashtech;28485 said:
The thing about sanding and clearing some SS paints, even solids, it that the sanding can disturb enough pigment to change the color. There are many ways around this, one being to clear the SS wet-on-wet with a known compatible clear, usually from the same paint line, then sand and re-clear with SPI. Another is to go ahead and wet sand the SS, then put one coat of color back over that to correct the color, then proceed with clearing after a carefully determined flash time. Not all colors will change, so some experimentation is called for.
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That may be an option, just apply a coat of the B/J clear, let it cure, then sand it, then slam on some UC. The instructions that i have found, it says to apply clear within 24 hours, or sand before applying clear if past 24hrs. I may have to give Barry a buzz to pick his brain...
 
Have you actually SEEN this color or are you just going off the Interboob pic's? ANY paint mixer worth his salt can come up with what you want in about ANY line.Yeah,You'll have to do some sprayout's and then comes the question of,Can YOU spray IT right? Yes,even a simple solid color. S&W has some "kinky" reducers,Like Dupont Chroma,You use THEIR s*it or YOU lose. If you really believe this IS the color you want,then pay the price for the base and lay some SPI Universal over it after a good flash time,like next morning.I've sprayed Uni over just about every paint line the next day,pushing the 24 and beyond with zero pop or die back as well as living long term out in the real world.Pop & die back comes from "something" still "wet" underneath basically.Your playing with "plastic's" here and when you apply another product over one that is still wet,that's when things go bad.A little extra flash time is NOT a BAD thing.Jim C can concur,Custom paint has NO rules,We BREAK them on a daily basis and do stuff most people won't even attempt.Yeah,sometimes we do fail,but it's generally due to impatience :disgust:.Being in the same field,I bring home scrap sheet metal from gal.to paint lock to "play with" and LEARN what works & what won't.As long as the metal is prepped and primed properly,It's a simple matter of learning your paint's limits.Realize that Manuf's "guidelines" are a cover their a$$ attempt to cover their a$$.Even Barry knows this as he's had to pay for fool's & noob's.BUT, He does know HIS products because WE use & abuse them,report back the success/failure and he "adjusts" accordingly.Reason why I still back SPI. Tech/Customer SUPPORT is beyond reproach.
 
I tried to get a code for this color as well.. No luck..
Only bet I could see would be to have it in front of me to have something to compare it to.
But then again you may want to see it on a panel or something in front of you anyways before you commit.
 
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