Clear question for Bondoking or anyone else

S

seneca2e

I was all set to go with the production clear 2.1 as I liked the feedback of it being thinner and leveling out and I rarely ever cut and buff. However Hotbo, who has used quite a bit of it, says it produces tiny balls(solvent pop I guess) if you get runs.

So next up was the Euro mixed 4:1:1 as far as a candidate to just spray and let it alone. The question is IF you get some runs is it fixable without reshooting (which the production clear according to Hotbo's feedback and he's obviously used quite a lot of that product is not-again he says the pop cannot be sanded out if you get any runs at all).

Also out of pure curiosity if you let some Production clear, Euro Clear, and Universal harden in a cup would each of them still be flexible(literally like a super ball). In reading the many posts it seems the Universal would definitely be but not sure about the other two.
 
I get a run with Euro once in a while. Hasn't been a problem unless you wait too long to take care of it, you must sand it out and buff it within 3-7 days depending on the weather.
 
Overall i have very little solvent pop issues with spi clears. Euro on a rare occasion if i bake it, never with universal. Their 2.1 counterparts will pop easier but still only if you abuse them.
 
Maybe barry should come out with some "anti-pop" LOL. Kinda like when sikkens came out with their xp hardener for the autoclearIII, claiming it was impossible to pop with this new and improved hardener...WRONG.

I personally haven't seen many popping issues with the clears that i've used in runs....and i've run my fair share!! If there are any, they sand out.
 
The regular voc universal clear i think is basically pop proof. I have tried and tried and in all the gallons i have sprayed and abused i have never gotten it to pop.
 
I hate to say it, but I have had issues with pop with the universal. When you consider that I spray it heavier than it is supposed to be able to be sprayed, that is to be expected. I had one job where the customer brought a bumper cover back after their kid scratched it by knocking it over against something. It was gouged pretty bad so I wanted to sand thru the clear. I had to sand with 180 grit for quite a while before I hit base.

Aaron
 
What I don't really get is that since Production clear takes longer to flash and hence is open longer it seems it actually would be LESS likely to solvent pop(if you give it adequate time to flash before recoating). My reasoning is that since the surface stays wet longer it would not be trapping the outgassing from below the surface. Must be some chemistry at work here that defies simple logic if indeed the Universal with a shorter flash time(open time) is more resistant to solvent pop than the Production or Euro clears.

People that have used it say quite the opposite though as far as solvent pop especially if you have any runs with the Production 2.1.
 
Actually the 2100 should be more bullet proof because it is less solids and being a 2:1 all things being equal, it should be slower to flash.
The feed back I get is, it really can be abused without to much concern but any clear can pop and remember, Travis area was getting killed with heat for months and the panels would read 100-105 metal temp in the booth, that sets up a real problem for a run to pop.

At those temps the best advice I could give Travis was, I just don't know how to paint these panels but pick one and try spraying both coats of clear with no flash time and stopping, I was not sure that would work at those temps as that is some hot metal but he said it did on the first hood he tried.

Any clear can get pits in a run if deep enough and mine is no different, I have had them in HS, MS and Universal, so I know they can exist but very few times has it been an problem over the years for me.
 
Barry how do the three clears Production, Euro, and Universal feel when they harden in a cup(say a 1/2" thick or even more)? Are there differences in their hardness and flexibility? That's always an interesting comparison I think.
 
We run gel tests daily and really may be a 5% harder factor compared to Universal the first 16 hours @ one inch thick.

Other then that no real surprises.

Universal is more flexible when fully cured say 60 days in cup.
 
Many years ago i did a test panel with universal.95deg day, fast activator, 14 coats with 5 min between coats. No solvent pop. I just cant seem to do it. The 2.1 universal is another story. Great clear but more prone to pop than the reg voc.
 
Interesting stuff thanks for the info. Jim C again the results are a little surprising because as Barry stated the longer flash time and open time would seem to make the lower VOC clears less prone to pop not more. You, Hotbo, and Bondoking have been there and done that with these clears. Seems like you favor the Universal, hotbo the Production, and Bondoking the Euro. Sounds like all have a very good window of usability at any rate.
 
I have used most of the clears and somehow i always end up back with old faithful......universal. i do still use euro here and there on something where i need a harder more scratch resistant clear.
 
Jim C from your old posts it seems you favored the ms clear for quite a while. I guess the very slow activator brought you back to the Universal?
 
Yes thats basically it. The ms used to be thinner than the uv clear and was great for flow coating but at some point in time it has gotten thicker. I dont know when that happened but in any case with the very slow uv activator its really not needed. One clear does just about everything.
 
so to avoid solvent pop and bubbles would you say its best to spray several thin coats with longer flash time than hammer it on? depends on temp too...
 
Absolutely. Solvent pop is from the paint kicking before all the solvents can come out. The thinner the film the easier the solvents come out.
 
Jim C;11566 said:
Absolutely. Solvent pop is from the paint kicking before all the solvents can come out. The thinner the film the easier the solvents come out.
Click to expand...

When applying clear this way aren't you violating the "spray as you want it to look" standard?
Just curious because of late I have been trying to put heavier wet coats of clear in an effort to comply with the above statement.
In fact I got a few dots of of pop on the last hood I did but they were so few and small I didn't notice them until the final cut and buff.
 
Like Barry Said we had months of 100 plus and panel temps of 100 plus!

i hope no one thinks the 2.1 production will pop all the time!

it had to do with Metal temp and air temp and i could not get it to slow down enough!

i was literally pounding the hell outta this clear,spraying it very heavy and would do the same on the second coat.

temp was killing me and i would get a run here or there due to the way i was spraying with the temp i had and it would pop in the run only!

i had 1 that popped all over but it was a black suv and they were VERY SMALL and sanded right out.(metal temp was 105 outside temp was 110 Plus.

guys you just cant slow the clear down enough in that kinda heat.finally the weather has broke and i hope the 100 plus days are over!!!!!!!

i am having no issues whatsoever with any kinda of pop(runs and All)lol!!!


i have used all the SPI clears except the MS.

they are all pretty much Bullet proof and abuse able

the 2.1 Production clear is great,i use the crap outta it.

i love the universal.its like a sweet wonderful icing on the cake when you wanna really make something shine,lol!!!



i hope i have cleared this up Travis.
 
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