Clausen Sandy Polyester Primer

rust defender is a great product. but spi epoxy will give you the same results for less money and is much easier to use. i used nothing but epoxy on this car and it was a disaster before i started.
 

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Not trying to start a debate or knock anyone's use of poly, but I'll just say, my whole problem with poly is that when I use it I get chipping on stuff down the road. It never fails. Then I have customers who are unhappy and I have to work for free to fix or lose a customer or potential customers. So I'm trying to only use epoxy. Current car I'm working on will be epoxy only. Shines tip on letting it induce for 8 hours or more is a good one. It builds better.
Not knocking poly per se, it works great for what it's intended for, I just am suspect of the durability of the stuff for when something gets used.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Not trying to start a debate or knock anyone's use of poly, but I'll just say, my whole problem with poly is that when I use it I get chipping on stuff down the road. It never fails. Then I have customers who are unhappy and I have to work for free to fix or lose a customer or potential customers. So I'm trying to only use epoxy. Current car I'm working on will be epoxy only. Shines tip on letting it induce for 8 hours or more is a good one. It builds better.
Not knocking poly per se, it works great for what it's intended for, I just am suspect of the durability of the stuff for when something gets used.
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Is it chipping at joints and edges or in the middle of panels?
 
aviator8 said:
Is it chipping at joints and edges or in the middle of panels?
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Rock chipping is mainly what I'm referring to. Any thing where there is impact. Once it happened on both rockers where my 1/4" plastic handled ratchet was tightening door hinges. Just simply bumped it with the ratchet handle, not hard either, and the poly chipped off exposing the epoxy underneath. Some of the poly was still adhered to the epoxy. That was on a car where I poly primed a little over 48 hours after applying three coats of epoxy. So I know it was not a case of waiting too long and the epoxy cured. There was some build but nothing excessive.
I just have never had any luck using poly and not having chipping down the road. I'm just done using it.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Not trying to start a debate or knock anyone's use of poly, but I'll just say, my whole problem with poly is that when I use it I get chipping on stuff down the road. It never fails. Then I have customers who are unhappy and I have to work for free to fix or lose a customer or potential customers. So I'm trying to only use epoxy. Current car I'm working on will be epoxy only. Shines tip on letting it induce for 8 hours or more is a good one. It builds better.
Not knocking poly per se, it works great for what it's intended for, I just am suspect of the durability of the stuff for when something gets used.
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Hey if you can get away with just epoxy that’s ideal. Mix it the night before and spray in morning. Or mix in morning spray at night. No biggie.
 
With epoxy meant for build, I am doing 2 medium-light coats back-to-back. This seems to give good build without the material getting weird like it can do when it gets a little too wet on the surface. I know shine once said he double coated, so I gave it a try and it seems to work pretty sweet. Leave lots of time between double coats, of course. 3 double coats is seeming like plenty of primer, almost as thick as a normal 3 heavy coats of urethane primer.
 
crashtech said:
With epoxy meant for build, I am doing 2 medium-light coats back-to-back. This seems to give good build without the material getting weird like it can do when it gets a little too wet on the surface. I know shine once said he double coated, so I gave it a try and it seems to work pretty sweet. Leave lots of time between double coats, of course. 3 double coats is seeming like plenty of primer, almost as thick as a normal 3 heavy coats of urethane primer.
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The 1st time Barry told me that it can be double coated, I was dumbfounded. Come to think of it, I was dumbfounded the 6th time too.
 
Clausen Sandy is still around$250. Super build with hardener is close to $20 dollars cheaper. Featherfill G2 is $180 shipped. I still don't see what this poly does compared to the other major lines and costs more?
 
Mustang408 said:
Clausen Sandy is still around$250. Super build with hardener is close to $20 dollars cheaper. Featherfill G2 is $180 shipped. I still don't see what this poly does compared to the other major lines and costs more?
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Sandy is $120 a gallon direct from Clausen…. :). Some bandit on Amazon is selling it for double that….

If you prefer the others then don’t use it…

Don
 
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dhutton01 said:
Bumping this for an update. I had it from a reliable, cough cough, source that Clausen Sandy is the same as Rust Defender and All U Need without the zinc. Since I use epoxy on bare metal I have no need for the zinc. Sandy is half the price of Rust Defender. I used it on my latest project. I can report it sprays and sands the same as Rust Defender and All U Need. The color is a very light gray but it does contrast on the first sanding. Because it is so light in color black dry guide coat shows up very well which is great for my ageing eyesight. I can recommend this poly primer to anyone who is used to using the other Clausen poly primers. It’s good stuff imo. The price is excellent compared to Rust Defender.

Don
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Your are a dust making machine! I'm not advocating the claim but their website doesn't seem to indicate any difference in what you can put Sandy on. Seems to indicate you can put it on bare steel just like the all-u-need and rust defender. If that is the case, wouldn't it have to have zinc? The Sandy is cheaper but is only one sprayable gallon in comparsion to epoxy. Hmm. I don't want to spray at home anymore so I'm tyring to think of a way I can brush on all my primer then find a booth when I spray color. I really like the all-u-need accept for the price so doing Epoxy and Sandy is apealling..
 
50Shep said:
Your are a dust making machine! I'm not advocating the claim but their website doesn't seem to indicate any difference in what you can put Sandy on. Seems to indicate you can put it on bare steel just like the all-u-need and rust defender. If that is the case, wouldn't it have to have zinc? The Sandy is cheaper but is only one sprayable gallon in comparsion to epoxy. Hmm. I don't want to spray at home anymore so I'm tyring to think of a way I can brush on all my primer then find a booth when I spray color. I really like the all-u-need accept for the price so doing Epoxy and Sandy is apealling..
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Poly isn’t for everyone. :) I like it and use it along with epoxy. Poly builds faster imo and my schedules are usually tight.

I think all poly manufacturers claim it can be applied to bare metal and they don’t contain zinc afaik. I personally would never apply poly to bare metal. Always epoxy on bare metal.

Eastwood has a urethane primer they claim can be rolled on. Again, not something I would ever do.

Don
 
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