G
GLHX
Interested in the above post.
I have my car finished in 180. Very few sand throughs and the body is very straight....the light patterns on the wax and grease remover would be perfect for base.....except for the 180 scratches.
I'm bad at using high build and either go too slow or fast.....too close or too far. I ran it and sprayed dry in some spots and created a lot of orange peel and runs in others. And others it was perfect.
The first time ran it dry and had to take it back off. So I'm in about 40 hours of just the first round of blocking. Hence my apprehension to spraying more on there
2 coats spi and 3 coats of high build on there
Gun is finishline 4
30psi at regulator
Fan was wide open
Fluid was all the way out then 2 turns in
When I spray this again with high build to fill the 180.... Then sand that with 400. If I run it and get either runs or uneven wave 400 will flatten it but it won't cut out the imperfections.
Then I was going to seal it and maybe run into more trouble. What should I do here if I do get the mess I had before. I won't over it with a da to take down the orange peel and still had enough on there for block sanding
http://flic.kr/p/mSExS6
http://flic.kr/p/mSGj49
can I spray maybe 1 or 2 coats of epoxy.....sand with 400-600 and then base clear. The epoxy will fill the 180 scratches? I've sprayed epoxy a lot and get better results with it.
This would save me a weekend. It took me 15 solid hours to block the car.
Another question
Using a red scotch Brite pad to get into tight spaces,......like the roof rack or tail light housing.....or the window seal bases spot welds. The pad gets in there much better. Will it provide the scratches I need to either put on more high build or epoxy? I can always go back over it with 180 for the main surfaces but the pad gets into places like the crevices in the seam sealer and the rugged mounting mechanism of the roof rack sub base. None of it will be seen.
The primer is marhyde.....switching to everything spi
The epoxy is spi
I have my car finished in 180. Very few sand throughs and the body is very straight....the light patterns on the wax and grease remover would be perfect for base.....except for the 180 scratches.
I'm bad at using high build and either go too slow or fast.....too close or too far. I ran it and sprayed dry in some spots and created a lot of orange peel and runs in others. And others it was perfect.
The first time ran it dry and had to take it back off. So I'm in about 40 hours of just the first round of blocking. Hence my apprehension to spraying more on there
2 coats spi and 3 coats of high build on there
Gun is finishline 4
30psi at regulator
Fan was wide open
Fluid was all the way out then 2 turns in
When I spray this again with high build to fill the 180.... Then sand that with 400. If I run it and get either runs or uneven wave 400 will flatten it but it won't cut out the imperfections.
Then I was going to seal it and maybe run into more trouble. What should I do here if I do get the mess I had before. I won't over it with a da to take down the orange peel and still had enough on there for block sanding
http://flic.kr/p/mSExS6
http://flic.kr/p/mSGj49
can I spray maybe 1 or 2 coats of epoxy.....sand with 400-600 and then base clear. The epoxy will fill the 180 scratches? I've sprayed epoxy a lot and get better results with it.
This would save me a weekend. It took me 15 solid hours to block the car.
Another question
Using a red scotch Brite pad to get into tight spaces,......like the roof rack or tail light housing.....or the window seal bases spot welds. The pad gets in there much better. Will it provide the scratches I need to either put on more high build or epoxy? I can always go back over it with 180 for the main surfaces but the pad gets into places like the crevices in the seam sealer and the rugged mounting mechanism of the roof rack sub base. None of it will be seen.
The primer is marhyde.....switching to everything spi
The epoxy is spi