Base coat wrinkle repair

R

RayH

Promoted Users
Saturday I sprayed one of my doors . Door was prep with SPI products. The 2K primer was wet sanded with 600 and then I sprayed 1 coat of reduced epoxy 1:1:1. The epoxy was allowed to dry overnight .After spraying the first coat of base I let it flash for 30 min. After spraying my second coat the top off the door had wrinkles in the base? Went ahead after 30 min and applied a 3 coat. So that brings me to my repair plan, I wet sanded the top of the door with 600 and plan to tape right were the side meets the top and cover the side of door. Then shoot 2 coats of epoxy, wet sand with 600 and respray the top with base coat. If this is the wrong approach please advise.
 

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Should work fine, but I would plan on making the 3rd coat to cover the whole door. Sounds like the first coat of base was too light on the top, with the second coat being too heavy, causing an overload of solvent that the first coat couldn't hold.

Too late now, but you might have been able to just sand off the base coat until you just got to the primer, then rebase from there.
 
Thanks, if I spray the 3rd coat as you suggested will I need to scuff the side of the door? Also this is a metallic and I am concerned it will change the color. I do have some intercoat clear that I could add to the 3rd coat.
 
Shouldn't effect the color unless it is a transparent type color. If that is the case, you would be safer to just reshoot the full door the same as before.
 
RenewAP said:
Should work fine, but I would plan on making the 3rd coat to cover the whole door. Sounds like the first coat of base was too light on the top, with the second coat being too heavy, causing an overload of solvent that the first coat couldn't hold.

Too late now, but you might have been able to just sand off the base coat until you just got to the primer, then rebase from there.
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^^^ this is one of the reasons I read the forum daily. It's these little tech tips that new painters shouldn't overlook.

Thanks OP for the question, and thanks RenewAP for tech tips.
 
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Happened with Motobase on my daughters Duster... frustrating and we could never really figure out what happened... I think I just sanded it down and reshot the Motobase. I added a cap full of activator to the base per Barry so this was possible.
 
Thanks AP, this forum and all the expertise is why a continue to move forward with doing the paint myself. Also have to say SPI products are top notch, the universal clear pretty much sprays like the old lacquer I use to paint many years ago, seams if I can get on the parts with no runs or dry spray any small amount of trash or peel can be addressed
with wet sanding and buffing.
 
And Jim, my base is also motobase and haven’t had this issue with the other parts I have painted.
 
Here is something I have learned over the last 3 to 5 years.
One of the things that can cause a base recoat to wrinkle is if the was was sanded with to course of sandpaper such as 400 or 600.
The calls are with any good brand of base and usually only on the darker colors.
Does not mean it will wrinkle but can.


The correction seems to be base can be fixed with 1500 wet.
This does not apply if there is a clear over the base.
 
To answer a few of the questions. The 2K (grey) was sprayed over black epoxy. When I blocked the 2K I did break through the black epoxy back to metal. The top of the door was one of those area’s. The area’s I broke thru I resprayed with black epoxy and wet sanded and applied 2 coats of 2K. Wet sanded that and then sprayed 1 coat of reduced grey epoxy before applying base coat. As for temps the door never got below 70 deg. Each of the steps above were done and allowed to set overnight.
 
RayH said:
To answer a few of the questions. The 2K (grey) was sprayed over black epoxy. When I blocked the 2K I did break through the black epoxy back to metal. The top of the door was one of those area’s. The area’s I broke thru I resprayed with black epoxy and wet sanded and applied 2 coats of 2K. Wet sanded that and then sprayed 1 coat of reduced grey epoxy before applying base coat. As for temps the door never got below 70 deg. Each of the steps above were done and allowed to set overnight.
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Not enough dry time between coats of primer, imho. You can get away with using epoxy sealer and top coating with a dry time of over night but, not 2k. Most users allow 2k to dry for 2 to 3 days minimum before sanding and top coating.
 
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MJM, thanks but just read the tech manual and there is nothing that states that? Also this was an isolated issue not the whole door. I think AP was probably correct on his explanation of the issue.
 
RayH said:
MJM, thanks but just read the tech manual and there is nothing that states that? Also this was an isolated issue not the whole door. I think AP was probably correct on his explanation of the issue.
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Your right, I'm wrong. I'll delete my reply so someone who has read what I wrote won't give primer a few days to dry before continuing. No good comes from letting primer products ( especially 2k ) to dry longer than over night.

Thank you for your input, I stand corrected.
 
MJM said:
Not enough dry time between coats of primer, imho. You can get away with using epoxy sealer and top coating with a dry time of over night but, not 2k. Most users allow 2k to dry for 2 to 3 days minimum before sanding and top coating.
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Plenty of dry time. People only extend time to sanding and top coating for 2k (like me) to allow for shrinkage. 2k can be sanded as soon as a few hrs.
 
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