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anyone using metalux for color?

I do a mixture of collision with some resto work, would like to eventually get away from the collision stuff. I currently use chromabase for most jobs, but do use Spies on colors that I know don't cover well. My jobber is getting ready to add a metalux system. Just wanting info on the quality of the product and if color match is good enough for collision work. I probably don't do enough volume to justify my own mixing system but at thirty miles one way to my jobber I just looking for a cost effective alternative that I can get locally and wouldn't break the bank if I wanted to put my own machine in.
I looked into the line for a short period of time, I didn't like the 2:1 mix ratio. I didn't find a whole lot of information on the line. I heard color match wasn't that good so I started looking into other lines. But I haven't had any hands on experience.


Paint Fanatic
Staff member
The metalux is an excellent base, it seems to be a tit for tat copy of the Diamont , so great metallic control.
We have a production shop who does work for 7 or 9 insurance companies and for years (19) had used all SPI with his Spies system, they are very high quality and to the point they will not do a car over 5 years old.
Funny the insurance companies like them so much they send the older cars to other shops.
When metalux first came here he asked me to test it, I did and he put in a system next to the spies, a year later through out the spies.
Long story short, I deal with a lot of shops that use this system.
Thanks guys, I'll probably give it a try. Most of the time on my insurance work I'm just hoping not to loose money on materials, just trying to make some changes to help the bottom line without sacrificing quality.
I've done a few restoration jobs with metalux.

I love their sealer, it's very nice stuff. I agree with Barry on the matallic control, I use an LPH400 with orange cap, 1.4 fluid tip. I have the purple cap, purchased it in anticipation of trouble with a gold and a baby blue metallic I had to do, I still haven't tried the purple cap though because I found the metalux to be very forgiving.

There's no way around it, I'd suggest no less than 3 coats for coverage, other than that I can't think of any tips or quirks. I used Universal clear over it, spi epoxy under it along with some SPI 2k.

I did use the metalux sealer though, there's nothing not to love about that stuff.
I just used some base on a test panel metallic and a solid color on a bed. I normally use spies base but customer had metalux it is a good base very high in solids metallic layed well just don't let the jobber tell you you have to use the base maker reducer spi works great in it I will definitely use more
well I finally got around to using metalux. I hate trying new products on customer cars but finally had a little job I felt comfortable using it on. used it on a rear bumper repair on a white 13 fusion code YN. Coverage was great, match was good and at half the price of chromabase I will definitely be using it again.
I switched to Metalux years ago after using Chromabase for over 10 yrs.
The Metalux has chips for the alternates and that has given me better matches than I got with Chromabase.
And it is less than half the price.
I looked into the line for a short period of time, I didn't like the 2:1 mix ratio.
That mix ratio can be 2:1 or 1:1, it all depends on if they add "binder" to it.
Without the binder it's 1:1 ratio, with binder it's 2:1 ratio
I think the binder is suppose to help with metallics, I really don't know.
But without the binder, it's more paint, covers better.
And my supplier charges more for it that way too.