'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I would highly recommend guide coat being applied before you sand the 2k. In my experience the 2k always looks good but there are imperfections the eye doesn't see.
C
CMS829
Ok will definitrely guide coat it. I can see that being an issue as the gray 2k has zero depth to it. I honestly dont think im going to have to do much on the 2k. May just start out and finish with 400. Im super happy with the finish so far. I did block before the 2k though so guess thats why.
Got the cap off and all the windows out and it fits in the garage with the bed no problem. So im going to leave the bed in 2k, cover it with some plastic sheeting, and sand the cap. Then i will shoot the sealer and bring it to my buddy for base and clear the next day.
Only question remaining is do i shoot the cap with an unredeuced or reduced coat of epoxy?
Got the cap off and all the windows out and it fits in the garage with the bed no problem. So im going to leave the bed in 2k, cover it with some plastic sheeting, and sand the cap. Then i will shoot the sealer and bring it to my buddy for base and clear the next day.
Only question remaining is do i shoot the cap with an unredeuced or reduced coat of epoxy?
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I use the 3M dry guide coat even when wet sanding. It will let you know if you have issues.
If you plan to shoot the epoxy as a seal coat then I would reduce the epoxy.
If you plan to shoot the epoxy as a seal coat then I would reduce the epoxy.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
+1 for dry guidecoat I use it on everything wet or dry. Plus you can re-apply it which helps when you have a troublesome area. Only way to go IMO.
C
CMS829
Is the dry that much better than the aerosol? Just curious as all i have is the aerosol.
Sanding the cap all the way to fiberglass, as the existing paint comes off easier than i liked. Seems like they didnt even use a primer. Just looks like base coat to me. So i am going to shoot one straight coat of epoxy, maybe block it a tiny bit. Then a sealer coat the day before it goes for base and clear.
Sanding the cap all the way to fiberglass, as the existing paint comes off easier than i liked. Seems like they didnt even use a primer. Just looks like base coat to me. So i am going to shoot one straight coat of epoxy, maybe block it a tiny bit. Then a sealer coat the day before it goes for base and clear.
C
CMS829
disregard the above comment regarding the fiberglass. There is in fact what I believe to be a gel coat between the fiberglass and the paint.
So - I am sanding off all the old paint down to the gelcoat with 120 grit. I will give it a quick once over with 320 or 400 and shoot a coat of primer.
Question is still should I shoot one coat of straight epoxy, and do a light blocking? Im not going to block the crap out of this as Ive been told dont bother, fiberglass is wavy anyway. I still think I can get it straighter than it was.
After that straight epoxy coat, and a light blocking - Shoot a seal coat on both the cap and bed. Then, should I really give it one more blocking at 4-600 or so?
So - I am sanding off all the old paint down to the gelcoat with 120 grit. I will give it a quick once over with 320 or 400 and shoot a coat of primer.
Question is still should I shoot one coat of straight epoxy, and do a light blocking? Im not going to block the crap out of this as Ive been told dont bother, fiberglass is wavy anyway. I still think I can get it straighter than it was.
After that straight epoxy coat, and a light blocking - Shoot a seal coat on both the cap and bed. Then, should I really give it one more blocking at 4-600 or so?
C
CMS829
Anyone have any thoughts on the fiberglass cap and epoxy? Or does anyone see anything wrong with doing a coat of straight epoxy, light blocking with 320 or 400...then shoot a reduced sealer coat the night before base? Unfortunately I dont have the option to shoot the sealer coat and get base on it within a couple hours. I plan to shoot them one evening....load the cap on the trailer and put the bed on the truck, then bring them to my buddies shop in the morning. Think I should be ok doing this without sanding again?
C
CMS829
No not solid so i guess i should go to 600. It is actaully chrysler PBJ. Atlantic blue pearl coat.
B
bing98
Looking good. This is quickly becoming one of the more useful threads I have found anywhere on the the subject of patching rusted panels from start to finish. Thanks everyone for the input.
On this past Wednesday afternoon I sprayed all the patch panels I made. I have kept them at or above 75 degrees since. How long did you wait for yours to cure before welding them in. I have seen recommendations of up to 5-7 days so the heat has less effect. There's one small flat piece (not pictured) that I want to weld in Saturday.
Thanks
On this past Wednesday afternoon I sprayed all the patch panels I made. I have kept them at or above 75 degrees since. How long did you wait for yours to cure before welding them in. I have seen recommendations of up to 5-7 days so the heat has less effect. There's one small flat piece (not pictured) that I want to weld in Saturday.
Thanks
B
Bentrustynail
Space and lighting is always a problem in a home garage. I had to paint my truck one side at a time because of lack of room. I recently upgraded to LED lighting which at least helped the light issue.
C
CMS829
Hey guys. Had to put this on hold for a couple days while dealing with a family emergency.
Bing - looks great! I gave my panels several days before welding. And the welding took me a couple weeks, so they had plenty of time. I like the chain setup. Im going to have to do something similar for my caps rear door.
So I have the cap fully sanded but now I am facing down below normal temps. My question is - if temps while spraying are below 60 degrees, but I only do one coat and then after the overspray clears I turn on the space heaters in the garage and keep it up to 75-80 degrees overnight, will I have any problems? I can pre heat the garage (and therefore the body) and then only open the windows and run the fans while I am spraying, and then immediately shut them and turn the heat back on. Thoughts?
Lighting is certainly an issue - especially when a breaker pops in the middle of spraying! haha
Bing - looks great! I gave my panels several days before welding. And the welding took me a couple weeks, so they had plenty of time. I like the chain setup. Im going to have to do something similar for my caps rear door.
So I have the cap fully sanded but now I am facing down below normal temps. My question is - if temps while spraying are below 60 degrees, but I only do one coat and then after the overspray clears I turn on the space heaters in the garage and keep it up to 75-80 degrees overnight, will I have any problems? I can pre heat the garage (and therefore the body) and then only open the windows and run the fans while I am spraying, and then immediately shut them and turn the heat back on. Thoughts?
Lighting is certainly an issue - especially when a breaker pops in the middle of spraying! haha
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B
bing98
Thanks. That chain is cheap and very handy. I use it to suspend all of my lighting in the garage as well.
I'm in the same boat as well. temps will be in the low 50s here this weekend when I'm spraying. My understanding is that as long as the paint in the can and the cup is kept at the correct temps(above 65) and the pieces being painted are kept nice and toasty for at least 24 hours you are ok. Might be a little tougher for you. My pieces are small enough where I can keep my 2 space heaters focused on them. Sounds like you need to keep the whole room warm, but that's my understanding.
They key is the primer and the surface being primed has to remain above 65 at all times.
I'm in the same boat as well. temps will be in the low 50s here this weekend when I'm spraying. My understanding is that as long as the paint in the can and the cup is kept at the correct temps(above 65) and the pieces being painted are kept nice and toasty for at least 24 hours you are ok. Might be a little tougher for you. My pieces are small enough where I can keep my 2 space heaters focused on them. Sounds like you need to keep the whole room warm, but that's my understanding.
They key is the primer and the surface being primed has to remain above 65 at all times.
Dave C 5
Member
I heat up my garage with a torpedo heater then shut it off for spraying and turn the fans on, gets cold, when the fog clears I turn the heat back on. I do this until I get all the coats I need then I leave the heat running to REALLY heat the garage and walk away till the next day. My garage is insulated enough to hold the heat so yes you can do exactly what you said
B
bing98
Those torpedo heaters generate a lot of humidity. Doesn't that present any issues for you? I know when I run mine in the cold winter everything metal gets wet. Windows, tools, car.....
That's why I bought a couple of 1500 watt quartz heaters. It won't heat the whole space, but I juts need to heat the parts being painted.
Does anyone think it's safe to bring the parts into the basement after 12 hours? When I painted last week it was warm enough in the garage, but I did notice after 8-10 hours there wasn't much of an odor. In fact there was more of an odor lingering in the basement where I had mixed the primer and cleaned my gun.
That's why I bought a couple of 1500 watt quartz heaters. It won't heat the whole space, but I juts need to heat the parts being painted.
Does anyone think it's safe to bring the parts into the basement after 12 hours? When I painted last week it was warm enough in the garage, but I did notice after 8-10 hours there wasn't much of an odor. In fact there was more of an odor lingering in the basement where I had mixed the primer and cleaned my gun.
C
CMS829
Turns out my buddy is going to shoot a 2k sealer coat before base - so for ease of this project I am going to let him do just that instead of epoxy. I know epoxy would of likely been the better option, but since he is doing the base I am going to let him go ahead and do what he is comfortable with.
So all I am going to do is two coats of unreduced epoxy on the cap tonight. Wet sand the bed (which is in 2k Reg build for about a week now) with 600... Then block the cap quick with 400 and touch it up with 600... and bring them to him Saturday morning. Praying this all works out well. Super nervous about moving the bed after its painted but he would prefer to paint it off the truck. I have a bed lift to use with my engine crane, but still makes me cringe a little.
So all I am going to do is two coats of unreduced epoxy on the cap tonight. Wet sand the bed (which is in 2k Reg build for about a week now) with 600... Then block the cap quick with 400 and touch it up with 600... and bring them to him Saturday morning. Praying this all works out well. Super nervous about moving the bed after its painted but he would prefer to paint it off the truck. I have a bed lift to use with my engine crane, but still makes me cringe a little.
B
bing98
Good luck. I'd be nervous too. Just a thought...No clue what it take to remove a truck bed, but why don't you temporarily bolt it on your truck and deliver it that way. Unbolt it when you get there and have him help you remove it.
BTW, Dave C, is your torpedo heater a kerosene or propane. Mine's propane. Not sure if it makes a diff, but my understanding is anything with an open flame puts a lot of moisture in the air unless it's vented out a chimney...
BTW, Dave C, is your torpedo heater a kerosene or propane. Mine's propane. Not sure if it makes a diff, but my understanding is anything with an open flame puts a lot of moisture in the air unless it's vented out a chimney...