after compounding what do use???

I won't use any snake oil, but fish oil............
well I hear that's good for you, so I'd try that!!!:D:D:D:D
 
my friend who is a professional car detailer recommended stoner products
 
shine;28721 said:
damn did i log onto hr.com by mistake ??????

some of us are experienced re finishers . we do not need to try every new and improved snake oil that comes along to know we dont want any part of it. i dont want anything sealing the finish of one of my jobs.
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Thanks for the slam!

So what your saying is you've never used it.


I think my post was not clear. I'm not looking to use this product, just hoping someone had some Experience/Tech/Study on this product or type of product.
I guess I shouldn't wonder about any new technology or look into what makes it snake oil.
 
Don't let shine's bark chase you away, Mustang408. Your questions and opinions are welcome here!

What we know about the quality and durability of the SPI polyurethane clears that most of use, informs us that a wax can do little to improve upon it, except to make the vehicle easier to wash. I think at this point the burden of proof would be on any maker of such a product; independent lab results might convince some.

But we all, knowing the difficulty in achieving a high quality finish, should be very leery of any product which claims to wipe on, buff off, AND provide the same kind of protection as a spray on polyurethane clear, let alone being able to crosslink.
 
I'd say the only thing pure wax (sealant type) would be good for, as far as paint finishes go, is to put on brand new cars to protect the crappy clear they have on them now a days...ya know, so a few years down the road it will still be glossy. :playful:
 
han;13547 said:
For that wet look wait a few months then try:

P1010706.jpg

P1010708.jpg



With regular care, this sealant will last several months. No snake oil, just good stuff.
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I like the way you think.
 
to the inexperienced and diy guys. please do not use any of this type product on your car. grocery getter oem fine. but you have worked long and hard to get here. several coats of epoxy , several coats of slicksand , urethane primer , base , clear . you put any of those super whammy sealer waxes on it your going to face a disaster . there are so many solvents involved on most of these it will take 6-8 months to cure out. seal it up where is it going to go ???? and i can assure you there will be no vendor that is going to pay for the redo . learn to finish buff well and you do not need it . canuba will do all you need and let the solvents escape .
 
shine;29423 said:
to the inexperienced and diy guys. please do not use any of this type product on your car. grocery getter oem fine. but you have worked long and hard to get here. several coats of epoxy , several coats of slicksand , urethane primer , base , clear . you put any of those super whammy sealer waxes on it your going to face a disaster . there are so many solvents involved on most of these it will take 6-8 months to cure out. seal it up where is it going to go ???? and i can assure you there will be no vendor that is going to pay for the redo . learn to finish buff well and you do not need it . canuba will do all you need and let the solvents escape .
Click to expand...

Thanks Shine.
I like the way you think.
 
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