after compounding what do use???

S

ShaunD

I have wet sanded the universal clearcoat to 1500 and then hit it with meguiars 105 on a wool pad and then meguiars 205 on a foam pad. it looks very good. i am wondering what do use after that to protect the finish or do you just leave compounded? Could you recommend a meguiars product or chemical guys product to use after im done compounding please.
The clear is 1 week old since being sprayed.
 
You shouldn't put anything on the paint that is advertised to protect the paint. It needs to breathe for a month or so. Use Meguiar's #7 to gloss it up the finished panel, or just leave it as-is if you are happy with the shine. After a month you can use a straight yellow carnuba wax, or anything along those lines.
 
yes, #7 show car glaze! One of the best out there and really good for black!

Another great glaze is the Race Glaze Polish. I myself have never used it but others around swear by it. By looking at the description of it, says it's a sealant also. But the detailed discription says "breathable" clear poly/arcylic coating. ?? hmm.

If there is any doubt, dont use it! I've used the #7 for years on everything after the final buff. I really dont even wax anything...even after the paint is cured and acceptable to wax. Just use the #7. Lasts about 2 good washes.
 
After correct curing time, you could try sealents M20 or M21, M21 is a synthetic,M20 isn't, or carnuba type M26 or the new Ultimate Quick Wax.
 
cool - thank you for your response. i will give the #7 a try until everything is fully cured. I will then go with the synthetic wax #21
 
Have you guys tried the 3m blue stuff? I think it is called ultra-fine machine polish. I am using it now for my black car. Would #7 be any better for down the road when I run out?
 
Eric the blue ultrafine polish is just an ultrafine abrasive, it doesn't leave much of a film like a glaze or wax. Mequire's #7 would be a good protective coating when you're done with the polishing or even 3M hand glaze untill the paint has aged enough for a good traditional wax or polymer type wax. A glaze or wax goes a long way in helping to keep it clean.
 
Thanks Bob, that explains why I get water spots so bad if anything gets wet after I'm done. I'll have to get some kind of glaze.
 
A water softener will go a long way to reducing water spotting. We could not get by without the softener in our wash bay.
 
yes, watter spotting is from hard water. even if you have it waxed you will spot if hard water is left on paint to dry.
 
i am not a fan of sealant waxes. i just dont like the idea of going to all this work and then seal it with something. i have seen paint failures over the years that lead straight back to one of the wonder waxes. dealerships loved that crap and the bodyshop hated it. i use pure canuba wax from mothers.
 
no thank you . i will stick to canuba wax and leave the snake oils to someone else. i had enough of that type stuff in the 70's.
 
For that wet look wait a few months then try:

P1010706.jpg

P1010708.jpg


With regular care, this sealant will last several months. No snake oil, just good stuff.
 
I'm curious about Opti-Coat 2 and why this coating would hold up better than a quality 2K clear to the elements. Yeah, its easy to dismiss it as snake oil, but has anyone really tested it?

http://www.optimumcarcare.com.au/product/13/about_opti-coat_paint_protection.html

The Opti-Coat pre-polymer cross links, and forms a continuous protective film on the painted surface it is applied to, similar to a single component isocyanate that forms a clear coat finish.
 
shine;11466 said:
no thank you . i will stick to canuba wax and leave the snake oils to someone else. i had enough of that type stuff in the 70's.
Click to expand...

Carnuba gives proven protection AND you can get rid it for repairs...some of these polymers are hard to remove (which is good for protection, I guess...but every car needs work sometime)
 
The only thing I like waxes for is it makes it easier to keep something clean and if it's slicked up good there's just less chances of scratches. Don't look for waxes to improve gloss-if it does you didn't do the buff and polish right, and if you need wax for UV protection you best pick a different paint.
 
damn did i log onto hr.com by mistake ??????

some of us are experienced re finishers . we do not need to try every new and improved snake oil that comes along to know we dont want any part of it. i dont want anything sealing the finish of one of my jobs.
 
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