Activate the base?

C

chevman

Oldtimer
Several of you guys have recommended activating the base coat, and I have no doubt that it is best to do it, but there must be a down side to it, otherwise the manufacturers would want to sell that extra product.
Just curious, does anybody know?
 
No down side. It's good practice. Other manufacturers will sell a separate activator to...sell you a separate activator!
I usually keep/order an extra quart of activator just for kicking the base.
 
chevman;14078 said:
Several of you guys have recommended activating the base coat, and I have no doubt that it is best to do it, but there must be a down side to it, otherwise the manufacturers would want to sell that extra product.
Just curious, does anybody know?
Click to expand...
Only down side is you have to use what you mix or dispose of it.
 
The other downside, and please correct me if Im wrong, but you wouldnt want to use it for airbrush work, airbrush work can be open for days on end and with a activated base there is a time to get clear over it. So airbrush work ---No, but overalls--OK
 
It makes the base dry slower, so when the emphasis is on "productivity," paint makers like to emphasize how quickly their base dries, which means not using activator to achieve high speed repairs.
 
Thanks crash, I knew there had to be something in the everyday use of it, and that makes a lot sense.
 
Longer open time allows more potential for dust if you are not in a booth. I have also found, at least in ratty bottom of the barrel PPG basecoat it becomes just a bit harder to spray without creating a texture. I need to practice this though. The advantages likely outweigh the down falls and I am probably the one making it difficult!
 
Just add about 5% more reducer and it will straighten out. DBC in particular really needs to be activated, it is very chip prone without it.
 
activate prospray

Chad or anyone,

So what would you use to activate prospray base? Thx
 
phordguy;14188 said:
Chad or anyone,

So what would you use to activate prospray base? Thx
Click to expand...
Yes, use one ounce of any "clearcoat activator" per mixed quart of base.
 
Just saw on another forum where all of a sudden hardener shows up for sikkens waterborne base. they recommend it for use on highly prone areas to chipping. What happens is the clear chips...if any moister gets to the base then BAM...peeling and liftng. Hmmm...I know for a fact the guys across the street never used any hardener (it's only been out for about 6 months) for the year or so they used it. Man....I don't know if I could sleep at night.

Just seems like to me I'd be activating it no matter where I'm putting it. Is there some sort of law of physics that says you can ONLY get chips on your front bumper? Same goes for solvent base....there are areas MORE prone to chipping.....but why not have that durability on the entire care? Strive to produce the best....

Not an attack on waterborne.....as much as anyone who uses it wants it to be. I could see using it on a high dollar resto.....and as the owner is driving it, it gets a chip in an odd place that he never sees...next thing you know I'm tearing it apart to fix a much larger area than I should be fixing because hardener was not used, or than if I would have used solvent base. After that repair you think...what's next?
 
Waterborne activation? Scary, visions of the OEM 80's and 90's clearcoat delamination problems still haunt me....
 
jeremyb;14190 said:
Just saw on another forum where all of a sudden hardener shows up for sikkens waterborne base. they recommend it for use on highly prone areas to chipping. What happens is the clear chips...if any moister gets to the base then BAM...peeling and liftng. Hmmm...I know for a fact the guys across the street never used any hardener (it's only been out for about 6 months) for the year or so they used it. Man....I don't know if I could sleep at night.

Just seems like to me I'd be activating it no matter where I'm putting it. Is there some sort of law of physics that says you can ONLY get chips on your front bumper? Same goes for solvent base....there are areas MORE prone to chipping.....but why not have that durability on the entire care? Strive to produce the best....

Not an attack on waterborne.....as much as anyone who uses it wants it to be. I could see using it on a high dollar resto.....and as the owner is driving it, it gets a chip in an odd place that he never sees...next thing you know I'm tearing it apart to fix a much larger area than I should be fixing because hardener was not used, or than if I would have used solvent base. After that repair you think...what's next?
Click to expand...


Never thought about the issues that can follow a chip with waterbourne, interesting!
 
I'm not sure if its a really big problem...yet anyway. I sure as heck don't want to find out for myself. What happens to these shops when all the comebacks start because they didn't have a hardener at the time? Like said before...the guys here used it for a little over a year...they average at least 30-40 cars a week.

I thought these huge companies were perfect and have all this R&D? :cool:
 
jeremyb;14231 said:
I'm not sure if its a really big problem...yet anyway. I sure as heck don't want to find out for myself. What happens to these shops when all the comebacks start because they didn't have a hardener at the time? Like said before...the guys here used it for a little over a year...they average at least 30-40 cars a week.

I thought these huge companies were perfect and have all this R&D? :cool:
Click to expand...

Nope, they never put their waterborne in a bathtub! ROFLOL
 
I'm using PPG DBU w/ hardener, so should I use the same w/ the SPI clear base? I'm just shooting some flake in the intercoat.
 
As long as you are not talking about reactive reducer, yes. Virtually any topcoat hardener is appropriate for basecoat, the best bet being the activator from whatever clear you will be using on top of the basecoat.
 
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