A Fella on HR Peeling Off in Sheets

Several years ago a friend was looking for a different and better paint line to use. I recommended a place located in adjacent town that sold a brand (Wanda) that has been recommended on here some. So he goes and buys it and after I looked at the label I told him that they had sold him already reduced paint. Well he felt deceived and NEVER went back to that store. They lost his business over that. He built wrecks and used a lot of paint. I also have not recommended them to anyone because of the deception that occurred on that day. So as I told him , there isn't any way to know what they used to reduce it with. Especially quality wise.
 
2 days old and sanded, it should stick. I figure it has to be whatever the reduced the base with, or solvent trapping.
 
the black epoxy in the pictures has a nice sheen to it. there is no way it was sanded like he said. it could be something with the base but in my experience this is what happens when you shoot base over unsanded 2-3 day old epoxy and why i always get base on epoxy when its just a few hours old. the 7 day window that is given on the epoxy is imo misleading. yes you can do 7 days if you going to put more epoxy or a 2k primer on it but to wait 7 days...or even 2-3 days then just spray base on it, no way. what happened to this guy is what has happened to me every time i have ever let epoxy sit and cure too long.
 
No adhesion to the epoxy primer. My thoughts are:
1. He didn't sand it properly as Jim C said
2. The stuff he used to clean it before shooting base left a film that prevented adhesion.
This wasn't just a small area but the whole panel, so it was part of his process.
 
Usually base or clear can base or clear can easily be peeled sometime in the first week if broken because of the amount of solvents still left.
So it's a solvent issue that's not escaped.

Some bases dry faster than others, and silver over black- coverage? The number of coats?
Reducer used and speed vs. temp?
The activator's speed in clear can slow the evaporation down, such as a medium speed or fast, and it's 85 or higher out.
To go faster, you go slower, so true.

The test when a spot breaks from bolting to tight in a spot is:
Leave it overnight, and the next day test it with a thumbnail, and you will have adhesion as solvents will rush out of the broken area.

Edit.
Another question is how long the epoxy was on before basing?
 
Last edited:
Barry said:
Usually base or clear can base or clear can easily be peeled sometime in the first week if broken because of the amount of solvents still left.
So it's a solvent issue that's not escaped.

Some bases dry faster than others, and silver over black- coverage? The number of coats?
Reducer used and speed vs. temp?
The activator's speed in clear can slow the evaporation down, such as a medium speed or fast, and it's 85 or higher out.
To go faster, you go slower, so true.

The test when a spot breaks from bolting to tight in a spot is:
Leave it overnight, and the next day test it with a thumbnail, and you will have adhesion as solvents will rush out of the broken area.

Edit.
Another question is how long the epoxy was on before basing?
Click to expand...
He says he let the epoxy sit two days before applying the base.
 
here hold my beer ......
 

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123pugsy said:
He also states no activator.
I've never used BC. Is base usually used with an activator?
Click to expand...
If you look at the tech sheet on Dynacoat, activation is the same as for Wanda (Imperium). Add 10% hardener {based on 4:1 hardener) and mix prior to adding reducer. But, if you look at the label on the can in the pic on HR, what he got was pre-reduced. Obviously, you could still activate it but the interesting thing to me is that the reducer as listed on the label doesn't have a part number that might indicate the speed. It just says Dynacoat universal reducer. One size fits all for parts house paint I guess???
 
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