T
tonysturbo
Here is the gallon can.
S
Senile Old Fart
if i read this correct you shot straight DMD1683 black (mixing base for DBC) ?
T
tonysturbo
Senile Old Fart;15079 said:
Yep. It's what is in the DBC 9700 only. Just another way to get it cheaper. And boy is it black.
T
tonysturbo
crashtech;15085 said:
So what I sprayed is going to get brittle because I didn't add any activator?
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
Well, it's not like it's gonna crack and fall off. I've just seen a lot of DBC jobs long term, as I have worked at two local shops, one that used to use it and one that still uses it. I sprayed a lot of it myself.
What I have seen is the DBC jobs get more front end chips than some other brands, we have a real problem with stone chips here because they "sand" the roads with stuff that is more like rocks than sand. The bumper jobs I did while at the one shop have not seemed to have a problem, because I insisted on using DX57. These days I know that activated basecoat is appropriate for the whole vehicle, and I think that is how most of us here do things.
If the Buick is going to see limited road use and you don't live in a bad stone chip area, it's probably not much of an issue. Nice thing about black is it touches up good.
What I have seen is the DBC jobs get more front end chips than some other brands, we have a real problem with stone chips here because they "sand" the roads with stuff that is more like rocks than sand. The bumper jobs I did while at the one shop have not seemed to have a problem, because I insisted on using DX57. These days I know that activated basecoat is appropriate for the whole vehicle, and I think that is how most of us here do things.
If the Buick is going to see limited road use and you don't live in a bad stone chip area, it's probably not much of an issue. Nice thing about black is it touches up good.
T
tonysturbo
Well that's good news. I've been using the DBC for alot of years and have never added any activator to it. Come to think about it i haven't seen chipping issues even on my 12 year old Buick paint job. I'm sure if it was driven every day of the year it might be a different story. Good thing it has the SPI epoxy primer and then clear on top of it....That will stop them damn stones...lolcrashtech;15093 said:
Thanks for the info though.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
I was thinking about this on the drive home this evening, and you know, chip resistance is a function of the entire paint job, not just the basecoat. I don't have ANY data to offer on a DBC job that has been applied over SPI epoxy with SPI clear on top. I'm sure the better products change things a LOT.
But in the future, you may wish to try activating the basecoat. You don't have to use DX57, 5% of your clear activator to RTS basecoat will help your base adhere better, remain more flexible, and be easier to repair if necessary.
But in the future, you may wish to try activating the basecoat. You don't have to use DX57, 5% of your clear activator to RTS basecoat will help your base adhere better, remain more flexible, and be easier to repair if necessary.
T
tonysturbo
crashtech;15100 said:
Thanks for the info. I agree about it being as a whole process not just the base color. I'm pretty sure after talking to BerryK that with the epoxy down first, it gives it more flexablity then just the SPI 2K fill primer alone. I also seal it with the SPI black epoxy before it's based. Something to think about on the next go around, I may try some activator just to see, i guess it couldn't hurt. Thanks
B
Bob Hollinshead
I activate the base every time, there's really no reason not to.
T
tonysturbo
Will PPG back you on warranty issues doing this? And won't this make it more like a DBU base coat? ThanksBob Hollinshead;15108 said:
I hope Berry will chime in on this one.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
I assume you are not an approved PPG shop, using PPG products all the way through. So they won't warranty your stuff anyway, why worry. And even if they did, if you are not a mega shop all you will get is some replacement material.
Also, Bob would never steer you wrong.
Also, Bob would never steer you wrong.
T
tonysturbo
No i just do this for a hobby at home, It was just a question, how much are you guys adding per quart? and can i still use the SPI activator for the clear in the base coat? I think i read around 5%. Just want the best job i can put out there. At work we use PPG and we spend somewhere around 1 million on there product a year...I wonder if that makes us a mega user. We do around 12-15 million in paint work every year painting planes between both Duncan's ...wish it was all mine.crashtech;15121 said:
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
The standard recommendation is 1oz. per ready-to-spray quart (about 3%) but up to around 5-6% is OK on a flexible bumper, for example. Too much iso (isocyanate) is probably wasted if the solids level of the material is low, which might be the case in some low-end basecoats though I have not ever identified any adverse effect from too much iso being added, other than slower dry and increased cost.
Oddly enough, the older technology converted enamel bases respond best to the addition of hardener, they will act a little like a single stage when it is added.
Oddly enough, the older technology converted enamel bases respond best to the addition of hardener, they will act a little like a single stage when it is added.
B
Bob Hollinshead
I use a capfull of the clearcoat hardener per ready to spray quart of basecoat, I've done it like this for quite a few years, chip resistance is greatly improved along with flexibility. I've never measured what that is in percentages and I know others use more. I do think PPG also has recomendations for doing this along with most of the companies.